Best of the bunch

Silver Heights is another must-try producer from Ningxia. It helped put the region on the world wine map with its first vintage, in 2007, by Bordeaux-trained Emma Gao. She made it in a shed on the outskirts of the regional capital of Yinchuan. Silver Heights has since gone from that three-person operation to a much larger winery near the Helan Mountains, which is now experimenting with grape varieties like pinot noir and petite verdot.

In contrast to the fruity accessibility of Pretty Pony, Silver Heights Family Reserve cabernet blend (308 yuan) is a "moodier" wine. It's the kind you decant for an hour and then slowly enjoy. A cheaper entry point are the red and white blends in The Last Warrior series (142 yuan). Silver Heights partners with Torres China for its distribution.

Another Ningxia pick is Chandon China. Moet Chandon not only ranks among the top sparkling wine producers, but also makes bubbly in six countries besides its home base of France. The China operation released its first commercial wines in 2014 to much fanfare. These sparkling wines are delicious and far cheaper than expected: just 168 yuan for a wine made using the Champagne method. Their initial offerings include a brut and a rose, with a sweeter wine called Chandon Me since added, and are a go-to pick for restaurants and wine bars that offer quality China labels.