Culinary update on tastes of Shanghai

One signature dish is a cold platter of the quintessential Shanghai version of vegetarian goose, albeit updated with a heart of diced vegetables. Paired with a "foie gras" of cherry and pumpkin mousse molded into the shape of a gourd, the transformation of the simple tofu skin into an elegant appetizer infused with a sophisticated melange of tastes, shapes and textures exemplifies the culinary direction of this restored fine dining institution under chef Ma.

The grilled perch served on sauteed egg white with balsamic pearls is another modern creation infused with the flavors of Shanghai. The robust and smoky flavor of the sauce made from honey and soy sauce and the distinctive notes derived from the traditional "thick oil red sauce", emphasizes and pairs well with the tanginess of the lemon balsamic pearls.

The quality of dim sum a Chinese restaurant serves is often a good indicator of its distinction, and here the delightful parcels served over steaming baskets did not disappoint. A duo of beautifully pleated xiaolongbao (steamed dumplings) and shengjianbao (fresh fried buns) duly exhibits the skill and attention to detail required for making decent dim sum. The piping hot filling was delicious to boot.

The meal was rounded off with a simple dish of poached noodles with scalded scallion and dried shrimps, a traditional staple ubiquitous around the city's food alleys. Enhanced with a luxurious whiff of truffles, this humble dish, along with a well-curated selection of other Shanghai flavors, is now perfected for one of the city's grandest dining halls.