Languedoc rising

One of the reasons for this is the ease with which wine is produced in the region. "It's an amazing product because we have amazing sunshine and amazing weather," says Guibert.

As a result of history, relations between Spain, Italy and France, and Languedoc's trading and export to them, the varietals of vines are broad. Daumas Gassac typically does unusual blends of chardonnay from Burgundy, sauvignon from the Loire/Bordeaux, viognier from the Rh?ne Valley, and grenache blanc as well, in wines that are often described as elegant and distinctive.

Most interestingly, during the recent French election, an article in the press compared the candidates to the country's wines-a natural comparison, given that after exports of military hardware and aeronautical supplies, wine is second on France's list of global reach. (Luxury products such as fashion and must-have handbags come in third.) President-to-be Emmanuel Macron was likened to Daumas Gassac. But why? "Because they described him as being young and unusual, and of course, showing incredible promise and commitment." In other words, just as France looked at Macron and saw a more purposeful future, Languedocians look to Daumas Gassac to upscale the region, or at least a part of it, to new vinous heights.

Languedoc hasn't seen the rush of Chinese investors typical in Bordeaux and Burgundy, but there have been a handful of acquisitions in the last three years. "One hectare in Bordeaux, for example, of the top appellation, might cost between one or two million euros; Pauillac, maybe two million euros," says Guibert. And then the big reveal. "From Languedoc, it's more like 10,000 to 20,000 euros. Investors can dream of this idyll," says Guibert.

Much of the winery's prominence stems from Aimé Guibert's close relationship with legendary French oenophile émile Peynaud, with whose assistance the first vintage was produced in 1978. "émile Peynaud took it upon himself to advise Daumas Gassac, but on two conditions," recalls Guibert. "The first: 'I will never be paid', he said. The second: 'I will never come to your estate-don't bother me, but you can call me any night after 9 pm.'"

Six months, later the two had become good friends, and Peynaud visited the estate two or three times per year.

Such provenance has seen the likes of Jack Ma and Steve Jobs visiting, too. But why did Peynaud, luminary of French viticulture, choose to align with a cabernet sauvignon producer in the Languedoc? Guibert explains: "Peynaud said he'd been winemaking for Grand Cru all his life, but that he'd never taken part in the birth of a Grand Cru. 'With Daumas Gassac, I had that chance,' he said."

Oenophiles, it seems Languedoc's 21st-century moment is at hand.

Start early, and at the below-the-radar pinnacle of the region, with Mas de Daumas Gassac.