During the Victorian era, the fan reached the peak of its success as it became more accessible for the emerging middle class. Later on, the slimmer silhouette in fashion encouraged a new style: cockade fans. The leaf could open into a complete circle, but came with a more simple design. As the times changed yet again, in the 20th century they began to fall out of favor, and were primarily used as souvenirs, decorations or advertisements.
In a time when women were restricted by social etiquette norms, the fan was also used as a means of communication. A book published in 1797, Fanology or the Ladies Conversation Fan, gave a list of explicit instructions on how to use it to convey discreet messages. According to the book, the English alphabet was divided into five hand positions (with the letter J excluded):
Hold the fan in left hand and touch your right arm = A–E
Hold the fan in right hand and touch your left arm = F–K
Place the fan against your heart = L–P
Raise the fan to your mouth = Q–U
Raise the fan to your forehead = V–Z
