Mask wearers reluctant to kiss lipstick goodbye

Even for the most exquisite stylists, masks don't count as part of their make-up routine — at least they didn't before the outbreak of novel coronavirus pneumonia.

But as protective gear becomes an essential accessory against germs in recent weeks, beauty influencers are racing to upload tutorials on social media sites, creating makeup looks that perfectly pair with a surgical mask.

Still, the compulsory wearing of masks and other measures have a series of sometimes surprising effects on the sales of lipstick. After all, you don't normally put on both.

Consultancy Kantar predicted that color cosmetics, of which lipstick is a central plank, would experience a nosedive in the immediate aftermath of the outbreak, since people were confined indoors to curtail the spread of the disease.

"A short-term plummet is well within expectation, as social activities were curbed and tourism-driven retail slid due to the pandemic," said Jason Yu, general manager of Kantar Worldpanel in China. "That has slashed both demand and supplies."

But counterintuitively, some companies saw sales explode, with lipstick sales up sevenfold for certain brands, according to e-commerce giant Alibaba, which didn't specify brands or timeframe for the sales jump.

Industry insiders aver that live?streaming has taken the center stage in salvaging the faltering cosmetics business, which has been hit hard by restrictions in population movement. Even when face-to-face interactions diminished, some pointed to the increasing popularity of video conferencing and short video sharing on social networks as key forces propelling young consumers to keep wearing makeup.

"Despite the virus, people's pursuit of beauty remains unchanged," said Chen Juanling, general manager overseeing public relations at Jala Group, a Chinese cosmetics company that owns brands like Chando and Maysu. "The demand for lipstick is likely to return to normalcy as people get back to work."

Dispelling concerns that lipstick sales would grow cold, Jala has rolled out a set of heart-shaped, bespoke lipsticks codesigned by Gucci Ghost artist Trevor Andrew. Sales were expedited by livestreaming, an emerging method of online engagement that is widely embraced by China's teenagers and young adults.

"In front of the camera, beauty advisers double as show hosts and sales representatives, giving instructions, color testing and experience sharing," said Chen, adding sales were "brisk" thanks to use of the technology. "Lipstick is a sign of lightheartedness, happiness and hope for tomorrow."

The past month has seen a torrent of companies jump on the livestreaming bandwagon. In early February, livestreaming sessions had increased by 110 percent compared to the same period last year on Taobao Live, the live?streaming arm of Alibaba Group's e-commerce site.

Yuesai, a cosmetic brand of L'Oreal Group, debuted its official channel on Douyin in February, inviting trainers and beauty advisers to impart skincare and make-up related knowledge online for 13 consecutive days. Douyin is a social media site for photos and short videos. Some broadcasts were even conducted from offline shopping malls where visitors were scant.

"A lot of these livestreaming modules are related to skincare tips, eye shadow techniques and lip care when you wear a mask," said Wang Qianwen, Yuesai's brand and marketing director. She said the online traffic is likely to translate into substantial sales figures, given that the company formed online WeChat groups for customer management.

Taking a similar approach is Shu Uemura, which uploads videos on product selection and makeup techniques. A livestreaming session last week focused on eye makeup as a statement, since masks usually cover up the lower half of people's face.

"Customers said the online Q&A sessions are highly informative in offering both skincare regimens and the latest fashion trends," said Ying Yongyi, national chief makeup artist for Shu Uemura China. "They also uncovered a number of long-tail products that previously have been unnoticed." Long-tail strategies can involve niche buying.

Yu from Kantar predicts skincare products will awaken from a coronavirus-caused nadir because wearing a mask all day long can leave the skin dry and cause irritation.

Laneige's Cica sleeping mask, which features moisturizing and intensive repair, became a sought-after item after it was endorsed by influencer Viya Huang through a livestreaming session this month.

"It's becoming critical to invest more time in a skincare routine by adding products that stabilize skin condition and provide extra nourishment," Yu said.

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