Why is Dior skirting credit to Chinese culture?

French luxury brand Dior's Fall 2022 Collection has sparked a furor in China as a skirt in that collection bears a striking resemblance to a traditional Chinese skirt that dates back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279) and became popular in the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.

With four openings, two in the front and two behind, the skirt is just suited for women who plan to go horseback riding. In recent years, Ma Mian or horse face skirts are a rage among Hanfu (traditional Chinese apparel) lovers.

After the furor, the mid-length pleated skirt in the collection by artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri seems to have been withdrawn from Dior's China website. Some are debating whether Dior's creation constitutes outright plagiarism or mere incorporation of traditional Chinese elements. It is common for apparel brands to draw from other cultures and designs. Also China has not patented the style, making it difficult, if not altogether impossible, to equate Dior's creation with copyright infringement.

What has provoked Chinese netizens, however, is that not only did Dior not acknowledge that it drew inspiration for the collection from China's horse face skirt, it even claimed it was its original creation. Some even fear that once Dior applies for patent for its so-called original design, the fashion world might identify China's horse face skirt design as a copy instead.

Until now the French luxury brand has not commented on the furor, an attitude that could strengthen the impression that it was indifferent to the Chinese market.

Coming from a country having thousands of years of time-honored history, Chinese traditional cloth lovers welcome and encourage all fashion houses, Dior included, to draw inspiration from Chinese culture. But, they should, at least, give credit where it is due.

The author is a writer with China Daily.