Sommelier gets art down to a 'tea'

As if the round tea bowl were a clock face, Ji Na began pouring water at the 4 o'clock position. Her hands moved swiftly, the water flowing close to the bowl's rim, coaxing the tea leaves into a delicate whirlpool. Within moments, she poured a rich, amber cup of Lapsang Souchong black tea, its aroma sweet and full-bodied.

"Lapsang Souchong is a smoked tea," Ji explains, "and to release its full fragrance, you must pour quickly, letting the leaves swirl in the bowl."

For Ji, a 34-year-old tea sommelier, this moment of tea brewing is but one part of her carefully crafted role. The Lapsang Souchong was chosen specifically to complement the upcoming dish of lightly fermented red rice abalone, a delicacy she had paired to enhance both the flavors and the experience for her guests.

"This tea is smoked with pine needles, giving it a subtle smokiness, while the tea's body carries the sweetness of ripe longan. It pairs perfectly with the wine-marinated abalone. Both the tea and the abalone hail from Fujian province, making this dish a true 'dialogue between the mountains and the sea'," Ji shares with the guests.

The evening marked a special occasion: the one-year anniversary of Fujian Restaurant in Beijing. In honor of the milestone, the restaurant introduced a unique menu highlighting the diverse flavors of Fujian cuisine.

What set this dinner apart was not just the food, but the carefully curated tea list — an unusual pairing for most fine-dining experiences, yet one Ji believed was essential.

As the creator of the tea list, Ji drew upon three years of experience and a profound understanding of both the flavors of Fujian cuisine and the complexities of Chinese tea. This pairing wasn't just about taste — it was a celebration of tradition, a marriage of flavors, and a deeper dialogue between food, culture and the senses.

Pan Xiaoye, 42, a celebrated food travel writer known as Pan Pan Mao, was thoroughly impressed by both the tea pairings and the service provided by Ji after experiencing the dinner.

Pan describes Ji's soft-spoken, engaging delivery of tea knowledge as both trustworthy and endearing. "Her approach makes you feel an immediate connection to the tea she's describing," Pan remarks.

"The tea and food pairing, which perfectly aligns with traditional Chinese flavors, was unexpectedly delightful," Pan continues. "The use of traditional teas alongside Fujian cuisine enhanced the meal in a subtle yet profound way. The tea's aftertaste was light and refreshing, serving as a palate cleanser that balanced the richness of the dishes."