Intimate, busy bistros bite into nation's restaurant industry

Late one evening last month, after a high-energy Mayday rock concert at Shanghai Stadium, Yu Zhuo and her friends found themselves still buzzing with excitement. They weren't ready to end the night, so they headed to Cila, a cozy bistro tucked away in Shanghai's Xuhui district known for its inventive northwestern fare.

It was already past 11 pm, and the kitchen had closed, but a selection of appetizers and grilled skewers were still on offer. Yu, a 33-year-old publishing professional, who had traveled from Beijing for the band's 25th anniversary tour, ordered a drink and a few dishes to share.

"After the concert, I needed to unwind with friends and food," she said. "The energy from the show could finally find its release."

In recent years, small bistros have become a new trend on China's dining scene, particularly in cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Guangdong province, and Chengdu, Sichuan province. They have captured the attention of young diners, offering a relaxed atmosphere and affordable prices for meals and social gatherings.

As the demand for more personalized dining experiences grows, bistros are embracing local flavors, with regional Chinese cuisines tweaked to create fresh, innovative dishes.

China's bistro industry reached a market size of 148.78 billion yuan ($20.4 billion) in 2023 and is projected to exceed 180 billion yuan by 2027, according to a report on the development of China's bistro industry by iiMedia Research.

The growth is driven by the rise of the nighttime economy, the popularity of low-alcohol beverages, increasing social interaction, and supportive government policies, the report said. As of July 2024, there were 33,162 registered bistro-related businesses in China, with new enterprises entering the market and intensifying competition.

The report also found that 82.8 percent of bistro patrons visit at least once a month, with 77.5 percent spending between 101 and 300 yuan per visit. More than half of consumers go to bistros to relax, and 47.2 percent prefer a "light buzz" from alcohol while enjoying their time.