City of steamed buns

Editor’s Note: Using a blend of words and visuals, this series explores unique communities and reveals the heart of China through food, architecture, craftsmanship, landscapes and traditions.

Steamed buns, or xiaolongbao, receive global acclaim for their paper-thin skin and light, flavorful fillings. They are steamed to perfection, highlighting a harmonious blend of their delicate textures with the distinctive fresh and aromatic broth.

The buns, generally thought to have originated in Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang province, were actually created by locals from Shengzhou, a county-level city in Shaoxing, Zhejiang, around 120 kilometers southeast of Hangzhou.

Historical records show that the owner of the first xiaolongbao shop, believed that compared with Hangzhou, Shengzhou was less well-known to people. As a result, in order to attract customers, the owner decided to use Hangzhou on his signboard.

Natives of Shengzhou doing business across the country then followed suit, naming their shops Hangzhou xiaolongbao. Therefore, for a long time, Hangzhou xiaolongbao has been synonymous with Shengzhou xiaolongbao.

In the past, trade relied heavily on waterways, contributing to Shaoxing's solid commercial traditions that continue to this day.

Local statistics show that there are about 50,000 Shengzhou natives who, relying on Shengzhou xiaolongbao, have opened more than 20,000 stores nationwide. Most of the shops that are scattered throughout the streets and alleys exist as mom-and-pop stores, with the handmade buns being of good quality.

However, compared to the modern production processes of many food outlets, the development of Shengzhou xiaolongbao faced limitations. Since 2016, the government of Shengzhou has rolled out an initiative to establish distinctive brands for both Shengzhou xiaolongbao and other local snacks, with an annual investment of 30 million yuan ($4 million) to fuel its growth.

Entrepreneurs in Shengzhou have also blazed new trails by pioneering a production line for quick-frozen xiaolongbao. So far, there are more than 70 quick-frozen xiaolongbao companies in Shengzhou.