Ham cellar business thrives in China's cool county

KUNMING -- During the Chinese New Year holiday, local delicacies take center stage at festive gatherings, with Yongde county in Southwest China's Yunnan province seeing a flourishing "ham bank" business as the seasoned meat has become an indispensable ingredient for holiday feasts.

Yongde, known for its windy and cool climate, provides ideal conditions for preserving hams. The county has developed specialized facilities, designed for optimal ventilation and air-drying, that can store up to 200,000 hams annually, giving rise to what locals affectionately call "ham banks."

Typically, the hams are hung for a year before being brought out for New Year celebrations, either to serve visiting relatives and friends or for sale. However, those aged for two years or more develop a richer, more aromatic flavor, making them highly sought after.

"I charge 30 yuan for storing a ham for the first year and an additional 20 yuan for the second year. This year, I'm storing about 500 hams," said Xu Xuegui, a ham cellar owner, explaining the storage process. "Normally, the ham produced this year is sold next year, while the ham produced next year is sold the year after."

Hams are often cooked with vegetables, and those aged over three years -- priced at 600 yuan each (about $83) -- can be eaten raw, much like the Spanish Iberico ham.

"Ham is both a daily and holiday necessity. It's common for people to carry a whole ham as a New Year gift when visiting relatives and friends," said Huang Shuanglong, head of Shihuidi village, which is home to 12 ham cellar businesses.

Although Yongde is a relatively new player in the ham-making industry, it is rapidly making its mark. In contrast, the city of Xuanwei, also in Yunnan province but over 800 km away, has long been renowned for its ham production, supplying about a third of the country's hams.

From January to October 2024, Xuanwei produced 60,000 metric ton of hams, with an output value of 9.7 billion yuan.

"As the ham industry continues to grow, it is not only enriching the traditions of the Chinese New Year but also injecting economic vitality into the region," Xu said.