Going for gold

Kang isn't a newcomer to winning awards. Just last year, wines from the estate earned more than 50 accolades in different competitions. The 2019 vintage, one of their earliest, underwent 15 months of aging and over two years of bottle maturation before launching in September 2022. It has since won more than 30 domestic and international awards.

The 2020 vintage, on the other hand, had not even been officially released when it won big. It was the first time Kang had entered the wine into a competition — and it came away with top honors.

"We were surprised by the win," Kang says. "Now we're labeling the wine and preparing for release. Competing isn't about chasing trends. With 120 hectares under vine, our goal is to focus on quality and reach more drinkers."

"Recognition from the judges affirms our standards, and we also hope consumers will be the ultimate judges of our quality."

It was no easy feat for the yet-to-be-released wine to take home the top award. The judging panel chose it from around 900 entries submitted by nearly 200 top wineries, following a week of blind tasting and scoring.

The competition followed international standards, with a 27-member jury that included 10 Masters of Wine, 3 Master Sommeliers, and one expert with both titles.

The Helan Mountain Special Reserve Chardonnay 2021 received two honors: Best White Wine and Best Chardonnay. The Domaine Franco-Chinois Reserve Marselan 2012 was awarded both Best of North China and Best Marselan, and the Tiansai Sparkling Wine 2017 earned titles for Best of Xinjiang and Best Sparkling Wine.

One of the judges, Australian wine industry veteran Iain Riggs, has judged wines in Australia, Shanghai, California, and London. Reflecting on the Chinese Wine Awards, Riggs calls them unique because of their exclusive focus on domestic wines.

"When I first judged in Shanghai, there were very few Chinese wines. By the time I finished, they had grown significantly. Then, everything stopped. Coming back last year, we had 700 Chinese wines. This year, it's 900," he says.

He has observed a shift in judging outcomes. "Last year, 50 gold medals were awarded out of 700 wines. This year, the number of entries rose, but the number of golds fell. That's partly due to vintage challenges in 2021 and 2022, and partly because judging has become stricter — we're not just handing out golds."

The Renyiyuan Tao Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 clearly stood out. "When judging, you look at color, aroma, and flavor. This one wins on all three," Riggs says. "The color was vibrant and fresh, even after five years. The aroma was full of blackberry, cassis, and a hint of tobacco and cedar from the oak. Slightly high in alcohol, but well-balanced. It'll age beautifully."

The Australian has witnessed a significant transformation in Chinese winemaking. "From 2011 to 2020, the market favored big reds with heavy oak and tannins. Now we're seeing more finesse — lighter styles, lower alcohol."

He says that the younger generation around the world, including in China, are turning away from their parents' drinking preferences. "They want to enjoy a meal with a lighter style of wine"

Contact the writer at liyingxue@chinadaily.com.cn