Foreigners shun bright city lights for rural charms

At one with the lot

In the quiet village of Nanxinan in Huangshan, Anhui province, the smoky aroma of wood-fired pizza mingles with the fragrance of tea fields and the earthy scent of preserved mandarin fish.

Adrien Brill, a 35-year-old American has traded the bustle of teaching in Chengdu, Sichuan province, for the serenity of rural China — and found purpose, community, and creativity in making pizzas.

In 2017, Brill moved to Huangshan, his wife's hometown.

"My wife could be closer to her family, which was important to both of us, and I would finally have the chance to build the kind of life I had long been yearning for — one that's more in tune with nature, community, and personal well-being," he said.

After various business ventures including an English-language training center, he gained some exposure during the pandemic in 2021 when he launched a TikTok channel called Wen's Kitchen where he cooked daily meals and explored village cuisine. The newfound fame led to a collaboration with local officials promoting rural revitalization, and in 2023, the opportunity came to open a pizza shop in Nanxinan.

"I didn't choose the restaurant business. The restaurant business chose me. It started with a video we shot at the launch of our pizza shop. It went viral overnight. The next day, we had hundreds of people lining up at our door. We had three tiny tables, no point-of-sale system, handwritten menus … It was total chaos — but also magic," he said.

Among his signature pizzas are one topped with preserved mandarin fish and another with fermented tofu, both traditional Anhui delicacies.

"It's not just food. It's a cultural exchange. It's the story of my family: one part American, one part Chinese, and something new and beautiful in between," he said.

Brill has become a fixture in the community, and mentored local youth and trained staff, all while balancing his dual roles as a chef and teacher.