Innovation heats up classic cuisine

Devoted to the kitchen

Born and raised in Hong Kong, Tsui began working in kitchens at age 15 during summer breaks, boosting his interest in the culinary world. Over nearly 30 years, he has devoted himself to the kitchen.

After learning the art of dim sum, Cantonese, and Chaozhou cuisine in Hong Kong, he spent 13 years working in a local restaurant. He joined the Imperial Court restaurant in 2012, and 13 years later, he's still there.

At the restaurant, Tsui has revived many traditional Lingnan recipes with a fresh approach. His philosophy combines preserving traditional handmade Lingnan techniques with innovation.

"Whether Hong Kong, Macao or the Chinese mainland, the Cantonese dining scene is fiercely competitive. I wanted to set myself apart through handcrafted dishes, because the harder something is to make, the fewer people are willing to do it," he says.

"Traditional craftsmanship deserves to be passed on. Some chefs may have worked for years, but they don't understand the old ways. I want to give these classic dishes new life."

That said, Tsui doesn't believe every traditional dish should be reinvented. In his opinion, each cuisine has elements that should be preserved and others ripe for innovation, be it ingredients, flavors or techniques. His focus on innovation lies mainly in seasonality and consistency.

"Times have changed. Some ingredients have become more expensive, and fewer people are skilled in traditional techniques, increasing the cost of handmade dishes.

"I invest time in research without worrying about cost. Once I've perfected a dish, I serve it within what I can manage. For a reinvented classic to work, my team must be able to deliver it consistently."

To Tsui, Lingnan cuisine is defined by its constant evolution, which tests a chef's true skills. "Doing something well today doesn't guarantee it will be the same tomorrow, so I adjust my techniques based on guest feedback and preferences."

Many of his dishes continuously evolve in flavor, technique and presentation. "Taste alone won't anchor a memory," Tsui says. "Guests can feel the care and thought you put into a dish. That's what stays with them."