Nanjing curator turns brocade into a business

Chien Ming-wei, from Taiwan, has been a key figure in revitalizing the 1,600-year-old human oral and intangible cultural heritage of Nanjing Yun Brocade over the past four years, rescuing it from a survival crisis and unveiling its unique allure.

In 2021, Chien, born in the 1980s, assumed the director's role at the Nanjing Yun Brocade Museum in the capital city of Jiangsu province through a cultural talent introduction policy. His previous experience involved promoting porcelain brands during a 12-year stint on the Chinese mainland.

His fascination with Yun Brocade deepened during his initial research, recognizing it as a royal art used by emperors in the Yuan (1279-1368), Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. He marveled at its intricate craftsmanship, comparing the weaving process to a form of ancient "binary" wisdom akin to a computer.

During his first lunch as director, Chien noticed that the craftsmen finished their meals in less than 10 minutes and then opened food delivery apps on their phones. He initially thought they were dissatisfied with the cafeteria food and wanted to order takeout.

However, one craftsman informed him that the museum had been running at a loss for years, with monthly salaries below 3,000 yuan ($418). During their lunch breaks, they had to deliver food, and in the evenings, they worked as chauffeurs to earn more.

Observing the craftsmen's struggles, Chien discovered the underlying issues plaguing Yun Brocade, including financial losses leading to the industry's decline and artisan attrition. This realization prompted him to devise a strategy to modernize and commercialize Yun Brocade, a challenge that had persisted for decades.

Drawing on his business acumen, Chien implemented a development strategy focusing on lifestyle aesthetics. This strategy categorized Yun Brocade products into various price ranges to cater to different consumer segments, aiming to expand the market beyond traditional high-end items.

The products were categorized as high-end art pieces for elite collectors priced above 20,000 yuan, lifestyle art pieces for senior middle class individuals priced between 3,000 and 20,000 yuan, and lifestyle decorations for young white-collar workers priced below 3,000 yuan. Entry-level museum cultural and creative products were priced between dozens and hundreds of yuan.

Now, in the sales area of the museum, a wide range of products are available, ranging from high-end art decorations and ornaments to scarves, dolls and fridge magnets. There is also a special section showcasing collaborative products with skin care brands, beverages and gaming skins.

"We hope that the availability of Yun Brocade works in different price ranges can meet the consumption needs of everyone who loves outstanding traditional Chinese culture as much as possible," Chien said.

This strategic shift led to a significant revenue increase, with the museum's annual earnings reaching 100 million yuan by 2024. Of this revenue, 60 percent came from online sales, as the museum kept pace with the digital and online era.

Notably, the craftsmen's monthly income also saw a substantial boost, rising from 2,976 yuan in 2021 to nearly 13,000 yuan at present. This improvement allowed artisans to focus on their craft without the need for additional jobs to make ends meet.

"In addition to ensuring the material well-being of the craftsmen, Yun Brocade must attract young people by going to places where young people gather and creating things they like. We have collaborated with a dress-up mobile game for character costume modeling, and our designs now better suit the preferences and lifestyles of young people," he said.

The museum has opened a Yun Brocade teaching class at a vocational school in Nanjing and sent master inheritors to teach on-site. After rigorous selection, suitable apprentices entered the museum for internships.

Currently, three young craftsmen who were born in the 2000s are carrying out cultural inheritance on the large loom at the museum.

After leading Yun Brocade out of its survival crisis, Chien has two more aspirations. One is to take the ancient art abroad and promote cultural exchange.

In recent years, the museum has collaborated with high-end brands through exhibitions and joint intellectual properties. As a cultural emblem of Nanjing, Yun Brocade has also participated in many major international events.

Chien's other aspiration is to establish an intangible heritage association or alliance in Taiwan to help the island's intangible heritage projects apply for UNESCO heritage status and strengthen cultural exchanges between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait.

"I believe that as long as we continue to delve into our cultural treasures, maintain tradition while innovating, and express our modern and beautiful life with new materials and designs, we will be able to jointly showcase our outstanding traditional Chinese culture and demonstrate our national confidence," he said.

Guo Jun contributed to this story.

cangwei@chinadaily.com.cn