From ancient lanes to historic crafts: Discovering Fuzhou

I first drop by the dual residence of the Qing revolutionary Lin Juemin (1887-1911) and the prolific female writer Bing Xin (1900-99).The most poignant part is an electronic display of Lin's letter to his deceased wife.

"You can see how his penmanship changes — starting neat and controlled, then becoming rushed with emotion," notes Miao Miao, a senior guide at Sanfang Qixiang.

Just steps away, Bing Xin's study offers correspondences between the writer and her husband, which are filled with her affection for Fuzhou. She wrote that Fuzhou's lantern festivals were the most delightful, and that local women wearing the "three-rod" hairstyle were the most elegant.

For those keen on Chinese revolutionary history, the former residence of Yan Fu (1854-1921), also in Sanfang Qixiang, offers a walk down the lane of the great thinker's final years, as well as his masterpieces.

Architectural marvel

One shouldn't miss the architectural marvel of Xiaohuang Lou (Little Yellow Tower), which reveals another layer of Fuzhou's cultural heritage. Originally dating back to the Tang Dynasty, the garden showcases ingenious spatial design featuring a distinctive half-pavilion, undulating saddle-shaped walls, and a rockery.

"The 'snow cave' right next to the study here provides natural cooling in summer," Miao explains as we admire murals created from crushed seashell powder and mineral pigments on the walls.

"The magpies and plum blossoms symbolize double happiness, while the long-tailed bird with magnolia represents nobility and longevity. These colors have remained vibrant for centuries."

Beyond the historical residences, Sanfang Qixiang thrives with living culture.

Along the main Nanhou Street, the aroma of rouyan (swallow-shaped wonton) — a delicacy of meat wrapped in finely minced pork — drifts from establishments like Tongli. In creative cultural shops, the "three-rod" hairstyle elements appear on everything from elegant hairpins to charming refrigerator magnets.