Evolution hits the runway

"We are infusing traditional culture with vitality, evolution, and contemporary rhythm in our designs," says Chen Yu, founder of his namesake fashion brand and designer of the Hui'an-inspired jacket. "The goal isn't to simply preserve tradition in a museum but to make it relevant to modern life."

The exhibition marks a departure from Western interpretations of East Asian artistic traditions that gained popularity in the 17th and 18th centuries in Europe.

"Contemporary Chinese fashion design is deeply rooted in the modern Chinese values of creation and lifestyle," explains exhibition curator Bian Xiangyang, a professor at Donghua University. "What we're witnessing is a sophisticated fusion where historical elements seamlessly blend with contemporary aesthetics."

Comparing the current exhibition to its predecessors in 2015 and 2019, Bian notes a huge transformation. "The evolution has been remarkable," he reflects. "Initially, designers simply applied Chinese elements like traditional embroidery onto Western silhouettes. By 2019, we observed a revival of hanfu (traditional Chinese attire) and the evolution of qipao. Today, we're seeing a more sophisticated integration that encompasses the material, organizational, psychological, and behavioral aspects of Chinese culture."

The exhibition features an extensive program, including static displays, theoretical discussions, and runway presentations. Each designer presents six to eight creations and participates in discussions on the fashion discipline system with Chinese characteristics.

Fresh from a Paris fashion event, Chen shares an observation about global reception: "Before leaving for Paris, I was concerned about cultural barriers that could potentially limit the understanding of our work. To my surprise, I found international audiences quite receptive to Chinese cultural elements. The global fashion dialogue has become remarkably inclusive.