From China's mountain heartlands to global spotlight, Yi embroidery travels far

From mountain villages to global runways, Yi embroidery from Southwest China's Liangshan region is captivating international fashion audiences. This national intangible cultural heritage is transforming into a vibrant industry that empowers local women.

In December 2024, the "Eastern Cloud Robes: Paris Blooming Night Fashion Show" in Paris presented a unique fusion of tradition and modernity. From Parisian avenues to the Louvre runway, models of diverse backgrounds showcased Yi garments rich with ethnic symbolism. Motifs inspired by livestock, flora, mountains and natural phenomena flowed across fabrics like wool, cashmere and silk through intricate openwork and embroidery, with tassels swaying beneath wool capes.

"Walking the streets of Paris in Yi clothing, I was often stopped by passersby for photos and conversations. They were so curious about my attire," recalled Aniu Aga, a designer and intangible cultural heritage inheritor from Liangshan Yi autonomous prefecture, Southwest China's Sichuan province.

"Many foreigners were captivated upon closer look, eagerly asking where they could buy similar pieces," Aniu Aga added.

Her "White Clouds" collection was inspired by a moment of beauty on a mountainside, where she watched clouds disperse as melting snow blended with wool spread out for felting. "Lovely people, sharing their finest ethnic culture and inner feelings 'between the clouds.' That's what my brand aims to convey," she said.

"Jia Shi Wa La," resembling a cloak, is an essential item in the daily life of Yi people, and it represents one of the most iconic pieces in Yi attire. It is made using the Yi ethnic group's traditional wool spinning and felt-making techniques, which are part of China's national intangible cultural heritage.

Aniu Aga noted that the attire's intricate, vibrant yet elegant aesthetics stood out internationally. Unique features like the detachable silver buckle, crafted without stitching, particularly amazed foreign designers. "They found it both beautiful and ingeniously designed," she said.

Seeing her ethnic fashion gain global recognition fills her with pride. "Only by showcasing our ethnic culture with absolute confidence can we win global applause," she added.

While Yi fashion now enjoys growing international recognition, its survival once faced significant challenges. "The greatest threat to ethnic attire is disuse," explained Aniu Aga, recalling a period when market decline even forced her workshop to close.

Determined to preserve this cultural heritage, she began extensive research and collection of traditional Yi clothing across the country starting in 2004.

Today, her efforts have evolved into a sustainable model combining heritage preservation with economic development. A network of workshops now spans several counties in Liangshan. Through partnerships with local schools and training programs, these workshops enable local women to gain professional skills in Yi embroidery and textile techniques.

"My goal is to increase income for these women while better preserving intangible cultural heritage," Aniu Aga said. "Yi attire must not only be inherited but also integrated into contemporary design, winning broader consumer appeal."

"The embroidery industry allows many Yi women to earn money from home during agricultural off-seasons," said Ma Xiuying, chairperson of the Zhaojue County Women's Federation. The workshop in Zhaojue County alone has issued certification to 476 embroiderers through its mentorship programs.

"The rise of 'Guochao' (China-chic) has boosted demand for ethnic elements, and our orders have continued to grow," Ma added.

In recent years, institutional support has boosted the development of Yi embroidery. In Liangshan prefecture, the industry now employs more than 30,000 people, supported by heritage inheritors and demonstration bases at various levels.

The revival goes beyond economic metrics, as Yi attire and patterns are increasingly woven back into contemporary daily life, fueled by a renewed sense of cultural awareness and identity. Designers are exploring innovative combinations like "embroidery plus silver jewelry" and "embroidery plus accessories," successfully merging tradition with modern aesthetics.

"One person's capacity is limited," said Aniu Aga. "The deeper I delve, the more I sense the culture's depth. I hope more will join because only together can we pave a way forward," she said.