Serenading an ancient city

Singer-songwriter Cao Shi's home stood just a stone's throw from the bustling Da Tang Bu Ye Cheng (Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City), a landmark pedestrian street at the heart of Xi'an, Shaanxi province. Day and night, the streets pulse with a restless energy.

Visitors drift through these vibrant streets, some in traditional hanfu attire, taking in the sights and sounds of the city. A short walk away, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), looms majestically — its ancient stone structure standing as a silent sentinel to centuries of history.

For Cao, the juxtaposition is impossible to ignore. From his window, he could sense both worlds at once — the gravity of an ancient capital and the restless movement of a modern city constantly reinventing itself.

"Xi'an is a place where the old and new coexist," Cao says. "The ancient city walls stand strong, but the streets are always alive with something fresh, something exciting."

This delicate balance between tradition and modernity is precisely what Cao sought to capture with his band, Black Head.

After a seven-year hiatus, Black Head released their latest full-length album, titled My Comfortable City, on Dec 19. It continues the band's signature blend of raw emotion and cultural pride, marking their musical evolution over four years of creative exploration.

The title My Comfortable City embodies the band's pursuit of freedom and personal liberation. "We want to capture the feeling of being carefree while living in Xi'an, of moving through life with an open heart," Cao says. "It's about freedom — a state of mind that transcends the struggles we face."

True to their roots, Black Head's music continues to weave the Shaanxi dialect into many of their songs, anchoring their sound firmly in local culture while reaching out to a broader audience. Yet, what sets My Comfortable City apart is its musical diversity. The album blends elements of folk, rock and rap, making it a true melting pot of genres, with each track offering something fresh and unique.

From the opening title track, My Comfortable City, listeners are immediately immersed in a rich fusion of traditional Chinese instruments like the guzheng (a plucked zither) and modern rock rhythms. "The song is our love letter to Xi'an," says Cao. "It's a city where the weight of history mingles with the pulse of the modern world. We wanted the music to reflect that."

Xi'an, with its ancient monuments and timeless stories, is a place where history is woven into the very fabric of daily life. For the five members of Black Head, the city's essence lies not only in its grand structures and historical icons, like the Terracotta Warriors and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, but also in the everyday moments that breathe life into it.

It's in the narrow, winding streets near their homes, where small shops line the roads and the scent of yangrou paomo — tender mutton served in a hearty, flavorful soup with flatbread — fills the air. These moments, repeated over years, quietly shaped the band's sense of rhythm and storytelling.

Formed in 2007, Black Head released their debut album Get Up Earlier Than Chickens the same year, quickly establishing a reputation for unfiltered expression and strong regional identity. The band's name itself draws on the local dialect and the tradition of Qinqiang Opera, where "black head" refers to rough, dominant male roles marked by bold facial makeup and a commanding presence.

For Cao, the journey to the new album began in 2020, amid the stillness of the pandemic. With live shows on pause, the band turned inward, focusing on songwriting. It was during this period of reflection and experimentation that the album began to take shape.

Over the next four years, Black Head refined their material, deleting and rewriting tracks until they were satisfied with the final 11 songs. "The result is an album that feels both personal and universal — reflecting our inner freedom, frustrations, and love for our home," says Cao, the band's lead vocalist and cofounder.

One standout track, Wind of Chang'an, captures a quiet but persistent homesickness that surfaces whenever the band tours. Chang'an is the ancient name of Xi'an.

"No matter where we go, there's always a deep yearning for Xi'an — the food, the people, a feeling of wanting to come back home," says Li Shuangxi, the band's bassist. "Even when we tour the country, we always feel like we're running back to Xi'an."

Another song, Never Be Defeated, showcases the band's gift for narrative songwriting. This satirical yet heartfelt song introduces the fictional character Li Dapian, a man who refuses to display vulnerability despite repeated setbacks.

"He's the kind of person who, no matter how bad things get, will always act like he's on top," Cao says. "He's someone we all recognize. He's proud, stubborn, and human."

The lyrics are laced with the local dialect, a defining feature of Black Head's music. While some may think the use of dialect limits their reach, the band believes it adds authenticity and uniqueness to their sound. "Dialect is not just a way of speaking — it's an expression of our identity," says Cao. "It's a bridge to our listeners."

As Black Head releases their fifth album, the core lineup remains unchanged, but the passage of time is unmistakable in their music. Where earlier records crackled with youthful rebellion, My Comfortable City carries a sense of measured confidence.

The band has cultivated a loyal fan base over the years, with followers spanning generations. "When we started, our fans were mostly people our age," says Zhang Ning, the band's guitarist. "Now, we see teenagers and people in their 20s coming to our shows. It's amazing to see how our music transcends different generations."

Despite the increasing influence of social media and streaming platforms, Black Head remains grounded. "We've always been a little laid-back when it comes to promoting ourselves," Cao laughs. "But we're OK with that. If people connect with our music, that's all that matters."