A growing focus on health has also transformed how people make noodles in Shanxi. "In the past, people ate noodles primarily to fill their stomachs, and restaurants competed on generous portions and low prices," said Gao Xiang, 42, a restaurant owner in Jinzhong City who specializes in healthy meals. He added that noodle-making has now been elevated into a visual performance designed to attract customers.
The evolution is also evident in the ingredients. Around 25 years ago, wheat flour noodles were the staple, but today noodles made from oat and bean flour are gaining popularity, especially among health-conscious urban professionals who prefer low-glycemic diets. Over the past winter, the most sought-after dish at Gao's restaurant has been mutton and Poria cocos buckwheat noodles.
In southern China, rising living standards are most visibly reflected in the diversity and quality of noodle toppings.
Shen Jialu, a renowned food connoisseur in Shanghai, documented this transformation in his book "Old Flavors of Shanghai." "Later, as life gradually improved, the basic Yangchun noodles were upgraded," he wrote, listing a diverse array of toppings including pork ribs, spicy sauce, pickled vegetables, shredded pork, braised pork, smoked fish, eel paste, shrimp, mutton, and curry beef. "When entertaining guests, simply opt for a double topping," he added.
On the other hand, local noodle sellers have evolved from humble mom-and-pop shops into a dazzling array of corporate contenders as China's market economy has fueled the rise of popular brands. Some have even gone public, including Xiao Noodles, a chain built on the fiery appeal of Chongqing's signature Xiaomian, oily, spicy noodles served with mashed yellow peas and minced pork sauce.
