The fish is sliced as thin as cicada wings and tossed with more than a dozen condiments in a ritual known as laoqi, literally "to toss upward", accompanied by auspicious phrases like "prosperity rising with the wind". Chilled, crisp and pure, it showcases freshness at its peak.
In the hands of a Shunde chef, a single fish can yield more than a dozen dishes — raw fish from the flesh, fried salt-and-pepper fish bones, chilled fish skin — truly embodying the idea of "one fish, many dishes", using every part to its fullest.
"Shunde people respect ingredients," Liang says. "We strive to realize their full value. We host banquets featuring 100 fish or 100 chickens. Ingredients that might be overlooked in other regions are transformed by us into delicacies."
This reverence for ingredients and original flavors finds another expression in Chaoshan cuisine, which is bold, rich and vibrant, yet carefully restrained.
Situated by the sea and rivers, the Chaoshan region in eastern Guangdong prizes freshness while aiming for flavors that are "fresh without fishiness, rich without heaviness".
Beef hotpot is its calling card, with cuts sliced to order, briefly swished in clear broth, then dipped in satay sauce, tender and deeply savory. Braised goose, springy eggs, silky rice noodle rolls and elastic fish balls all speak to a cuisine rooted in abundance and everyday warmth.
