The Middle-8th Restaurant has pioneered new territory with the decoration of its new Zhongguancun branch, but the food is as good as ever. With a spacious interior divided by simple glass shelves, the place is a prime specimen of minimalist milieu.

The establishment's dim lighting, stark-grey interior and high ceilings create a sense of mystery. The effect is enhanced by the jars lining the stairs leading to the 2nd-floor restaurant, and diners get the feeling that they shouldn't be too surprised to bump into Lara Croft en route to the restroom.

The restaurant claims to transport all of the ingredients it uses from Yunnan. The matsutake, for example, is supposed to come fresh from Diqing.

The dishes are of the same modern-fusion style as the decor. Most meals are served according to the ideals of modern aesthetics, except for several traditional dishes, such as steamed pigeon soup with matsutake in a porcelain pot (汽鍋松茸乳鴿), Jiangchuan steamed rice served in a bronze pot (江川銅鍋燜飯) and pork ribs in spicy soup (罐罐排骨).

Diners can also sample a myriad of other Yunnan classics, such as spicy yellow rice vermicelli (麗江涼煎豆粉), cold rice noodles with assorted vegetables (什錦涼米線) and lemon-scented unshelled shrimp with fresh mint (欖檸蝦). For those who aren't afraid to splash some cash for fine dining, there is also the option of feasting on rice noodles with matsutake and shark fin - a pricey but tasty take on the classic dish. The more adventurous might want to sample a serving of bamboo worms with vegetables (蟲吃菜) - a perhaps unorthodox but rich source of protein.

Meals here can be washed down with the establishment's herbal tea or with a rice wine with a low alcohol content. For dessert, diners can mow down on mango rolls ( 情侶開心芒), "smooth ice choice"(梅里的雪) or a sweet soup with diced fruit and small Chinese dates (阿卜阿力).

Average spending is 100 yuan per person. The restaurant offers a 40 percent discount before September 26. The menu is in both Chinese and English.

Ye Jun

11am-10pm. R17 Pedestrian's Street, Zhongguancun Square, Haidian District. 5172-1728. 海淀區中關村廣場步行街R17