Chinese white 'moonshine' en route to US

As United States winemakers continue to seek a share of the vast Chinese market, Chinese baijiu producers are themselves looking across the Pacific.

Baijiu, a distilled spirit made from sorghum that can be 80 to 120 proof, is the most popular liquor in China.

Sales in China reached 11 billion liters in 2012, accounting for more than one-third of all spirits consumed in the world, according to International Wine and Spirit Research.

However, baijiu hardly ever breaks into the ranks of the world's most popular liquors, since almost all is consumed in China. But that may soon change, as baijiu-makers pursue higher sales abroad.

"Twelve percent of sales are outside of China," said James Rice, general manager of Sichuan Swellfun Co Ltd, one of the premium baijiu brands. "We expect that to grow to 40 percent in the next five years.

"Swellfun has already been sold in the US for two years," Rice said, adding that Diageo has been distributing it there.

Currently, Swellfun is only available in the US at large airports and 99 Ranch Market, a chain of Asian-American supermarkets with 35 stores in four southwestern states. "Our first target customers were travelers and immigrants from the Chinese mainland to the US but we want to expand to non-Chinese Americans," Rice said.

However, selling baijiu to Americans requires extra effort for the white liquor producer.

Traditionally baijiu is not sipped but pounded back quickly, like shots, with the glass full. The Chinese toast "Gan bei!" literally means "bottoms up". That drinking style and the pungent aroma of baijiu often scare first-timers away.

"I still can remember how horrible baijiu smelled when I first opened it," said Dan Redford, director of China operations at FirstPathway Partners, an immigration consultancy. "I almost vomited just because of the smell, and I thought to myself 'How can anybody want to drink this stuff!'"

But Rice and his team have come up a strategy to change baijiu's unpleasant first impression.

"Americans aren't used to the odor of baijiu or drinking room-temperature shots. If served cold or as a cocktail, both these issues are resolved," he said. "We will introduce Swellfun-based cocktails. For example, Chinese dishes with baijiu, such as Swellfun twice-cooked pork."

Rice believes being successful in the US will also take a lot of consumer education.

He said a baijiu event would be held at the Long Beach, California-based Forbidden City Restaurant this fall. "This event will teach Americans about baijiu and how to drink it. There will be special wine-pairing menus and discussion about the history and culture of baijiu and four baijiu-based cocktails developed by the Park Hyatt hotels in Shanghai and Paris."

Michael Brausen, owner of the Forbidden City Restaurant in Long Beach, said the baijiu event is part of its upcoming Moon Gala, which features a traditional Chinese food festival pairing with Swellfun and exotic Chinese recipes.

"Swellfun is our number one and only choice for this event as they are the oldest baijiu distillery in China with tremendous historical and cultural significance," Brausen said.

"We have sold baijiu in our restaurant for years," he said. "Our customers, mostly Westerners, love baijiu and always want the owners to toast with their parties and explain its rich tradition."