Sculptor adds his weight to fashion world

His recent show in Milan and one in Florence were titled Ironic Lightness. Xu had 23 different-sized sculptures on display, in bronze, marble, jade and wood.

The female figures present a sense of agility, coordination and continual movement. These smiling creatures with faces that are intensely expressive and with expressive body creatures are apt to considerably brighten up any onlooker's day.

The sculptures portray women in everyday activities, such as walking down the street, riding a bicycle or sitting in a cafeteria.

Giuseppe Ciappina, a visitor to the Milan show, said: "Xu Hong Fei's sculptures make me laugh, and the generosity of their forms touches people."

Stefano Rossi, a visitor to the Florence show, said: "Their simplicity captures people's attention You want to touch these chubby women and interact with them."

Anna Balzani, with Ornella Casazza, an art historian, co-curator of the Florence show, says: "Their voluptuous bodies make them look ancestral and almost mythical. But their intense faces look benevolent and motherly, as if they were an emblem of a different and yet graceful sensuality."

Xu says: "Focusing on slim ladies is boring. My choice is more challenging. It was a risk in the beginning, though. But I was lucky enough to fascinate an international

His work is extremely popular in the Chinese mainland, and he is well known in Australia, Europe and other places in Asia.

He cannot find happiness in thin ladies, he says.

"Have you ever seen catwalk models? They are beautiful but all alike. You can't remember anyone at the end of the show."

His best female friend is chubby, he says.

"We met in a coffee shop. She said 'Hello' to me. She is the heaviest woman I've ever met: at least 150 kilos. I couldn't even hug her in the beginning. As soon as she knew I was the sculptor of chubby women, she wanted me to touch her arms, her bottom, for the pleasurable sensation. She has been posing for me as a model for a while. I seldom use models now. Chubby ladies live in my mind."

Given that it is not easy to find chubby women in China, Xu plans to visit Africa.

"I will go to Uganda soon. That is my one fixed idea at the moment," he says, laughing. He wants to find inspiration in Ugandan ladies.

"A friend of mine told me that they are so sensual. He's talking from personal experience."

Xu finally reveals the main reasons behind his fashion debut. He has decided to enter the fashion world because of the popularity of his art. He stresses the fact that, historically, fashion has always been in contact with the art world, and mentions the collaboration that Chanel developed with Picasso.

Xu's unexpected, exuberant accessories are produced by an Italian designer, Paolo Vermigli. Paolo has been working in the fashion industry for 30 years and has collaborated with many brands, including Thierry Mugler, Braccialini and Gherardini.

"I am drawn to Xu's aesthetics," Vermigli says.

"He is the first Chinese artist to use jade for fashion items."

Xu uses the very traditional jade that Chinese women love. It is employed in most items where the artist's work with its typical themes and motifs is re-presented. The elements of jade are hand-chiseled by the master sculptor in China.

Xu has chosen green and blue as the colors for his namesake collection: watches, glasses, belts, necklaces, scarves and fragrances. The accessories will initially be sold in three exclusive boutiques in Florence, Luisa Via Roma, Fratelli Piccini at Ponte Vecchio and Ottica Fontani, and if they do well they will be sold elsewhere in Europe.

In fact global marketing is the goal, and retail shops in Beijing and Shanghai have been lined up.

Products being sold include belts, cufflinks, pens, scarves, sunglasses and watches.

Xu is also introducing a luxury perfume inspired by Guangdong; a fragrance that starts with fresh base notes of lemon.

All items are made in Italy.

Vermigli says: "Xu Hong Fei has always been in love with Italy, both for its great art masters of the past and its creative fashion designers."

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