Oriental sparkle becomes craftsman's crowning glory

Liu is now building his jewelry into a high-end brand. Although there are other designers whose Chinese influences are apparent in their work, his design aesthetic differs markedly from theirs, he says.

"Of course my Chinese background influences my designs, because it's a huge part of who I am and what I believe in, but I draw my inspiration from everything around me, whether that's in the UK or if I'm back in China. It is not necessarily down to one culture, but my surroundings. Flowers and nature form a large part of my influence as I believe they perfectly represent the femininity I try to portray in my pieces."

Pushing design boundaries strengthens a jewelry brand and gives it longevity, and Chinese jewelry makers need to learn that from their British counterparts, he says.

"One of the main things that hobbles the growth of China's domestic brands is the tendency to be derivative of other designers, but what I have found in the UK is that those kinds of designs don't sell well, whereas new and innovative ones fly off the shelves."

Fei Liu Fine Jewelry has about 50 stockists in the UK, Ireland and France, and has previously been stocked in upmarket department stores such as Harrods, Liberty and Harvey Nichols. In China, it was the first British jewelry brand to have a standalone store in Beijing, as well as various concessions.

Facing competition from established jewelry brands, Liu believes that being different from others is imperative.

"We cannot compare ourselves to the likes of Tiffany or Cartier, as they have been around for so many years in so many countries that it would be silly to consider what we do to be the same. Although we have part of the same target market, we are happy with our current positioning, and our smaller yet powerful presence works very well for our bespoke service. We are a well-known designer brand but still have the personal element that you don't get with the larger brands.

"As a small creative business I think one of the biggest problems is how to have a strategy that helps us stay focused, and at the same time that keeps us creative when we present ourselves in the market place."

The jewelry industry, with its myriad styles and customers with varying tastes, can continue to expand to make room for more designers, Liu says. He is thrilled to see Chinese students coming to the UK to study art and design and wants more young Chinese with a passion for jewelry design to study in Europe, he says.

"I think European methods of teaching get students to think of their own designs and develop their creativity, and that makes for strong designers. I reckon, too, that an Eastern heritage combined with a Western education gives designers an edge that can help them get work worldwide."

"I have always wanted to work on both sides of the ocean, allowing me to work as a cultural bridge to make people better understand each other's cultures. So I plan to remain in the UK, but at the same time, China will always be home for me."

The more Chinese designers are pushed to create pieces that are innovative and not copies of other brands, the more the Chinese jewelry market will thrive, Liu says.

"China has been an international manufacturer for the West for the past 20 years, and that has strongly influenced the first generation of craftsmen and designers. But they need to realize that things have changed. Jewelry buyers are willing to pay more but on true new designs rather than on copycat products," he says.

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