Shanghai finds an appetite for foreign delights

The supermarket is 20 km from the city center. You have to wait 40 minutes in line to get in and another 30 minutes to pay at the cashier.

It opens only Monday to Friday and is always crowded, but the only complaint from customers is that the produce they want has sold out.

Welcome to the Waigao-qiao Direct Imported Goods market in the China (Shanghai) Pilot Free Trade Zone.

Since it opened in December, the market has attracted hundreds of thousands of customers with insatiable appetites for imported food ranging from fresh fruit and dairy products to frozen seafood.

Given the expanding demand and residents' increased disposable income, insiders and analysts say the market's popularity is not surprising.

Yang Minji, a consumer choice analyst at Fulun Consultancy, said the launch of the free trade zone and the favorable policies it enjoys have made it easier to introduce more varieties of food to Shanghai residents.

Zhou Yiwen, managing director of the Waigaoqiao market, said authentic sourcing and lower prices are imported food's main attractions.

"Customers consider the food at this market to be safe, fresh and reasonably priced. Social media have also helped to spread the news that we offer about 4,000 varieties of food. Some is new and unique to Shanghai residents."

Demand for imported food has grown fast. In 2008, China imported less than $25 billion worth of imported food, but the figure rose to $95.21 billion last year, up by 8.9 percent from the previous year, according to customs officials.

The mix of imported food has also changed during the past decade, with meat, fruit, dairy products, wine, spirits and snacks eating into the dominant share of grain and edible oil.

Liu Xiulan, 53, rose at 6 am, walked for 15 minutes and then spent 50 minutes on the subway to be first in a long line outside the market.

"As long as I get what I want, it's worthwhile," said Liu, holding a basket at the cashier containing a lobster, a sea crab and a case of cherries .

For Sun Jiayun, a 21-year-old college student, it is the variety of choice that matters.

"It's amazing. There are two aisles for coffee and two for cookies and potato chips. It is a paradise for snack lovers."

Wang Kuncheng, a beer importer in Shanghai, is impressed with city residents' curiosity about, and knowledge of, foreign food and drink.

"I've been asked all kinds of questions — is it lager or cider, or is it black or brown?" he said.

Zhou said the market may be expanded, with more stores opened in Shanghai to meet increasing demand for imported goods.

wuyiyao@chinadaily.com.cn