On the Wall less traveled

By Lara Farrar (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-09-18 11:41

These craggy peaks are home to a rugged stretch of the Great Wall known as Jiankou.

It was one of those chance moments. We were all huddled around the campfire when a shooting star seared the sky in its rapid sprint across the heavens, leaving behind it a scar of glowing dust that stretched from the Big Dipper to the moon. We were dazzled by the cosmic spectacle, and with the Great Wall as our platform and the rugged terrain all around us, it was a magical way to end an already spectacular day.

That morning, our group of nine hikers left the busy streets of Beijing with backpacks and sleeping bags and embarked on a two-hour journey north. Passing through the flat, arid plains surrounding the city to the craggy, white-rocked peaks that are home to a rugged stretch of the Great Wall known as Jiankou.

Built in 1368 during the period of the Ming Dynasty, Jiankou connects the Mutianyu and Huanghuacheng sections of the Great Wall. It is known as one of the most scenic, yet treacherous stretches of the most iconic structure in China.

At the start of the steep and winding trail leading up to Jiankou is a tiny village called Xizhazi. Most of its 150 residents are farmers, their gardens, full of squash and sunflowers, frame its tiny red brick houses. Most villagers have a few empty rooms available to rent for those who want to spend a few days exploring the hills and valleys in the area.

Lu Hailian's family has run a hotel in the tiny community for decades. Her guesthouse at the end of a narrow path covered by a canopy of vines weighted down with big green gourds. She led us to her patio where she served us an incredible, home-cooked feast of sauted eggplant and tomatoes, plates of freshly-baked bing, dishes filled with scrambled eggs and spicy chicken, and fried pork with peppers.

Once we had had our fill, and as the afternoon sunlight began to curve westward, we decided to head up the hill to ensure we could set up camp before sundown.

The trek up the north side of the mountainside from Xizhazi is steep and rocky with some hard switchbacks, but fortunately those are evened out with patches of flatter terrain. At a relaxed pace with a few breaks for waters and photos, the total trip time up was around an hour.

Hikers can also head up to Jiankou from a southern route, which is closer to Beijing but a longer hike to the top than the trail from Xizhazi.

At the end of the last, steep stretch of the wooded trail the base of the Great Wall finally appears. The shaded area beside where we stop for water is cool. We are greeted by other hikers - an even mix of foreigners and Chinese - who look down from above and say hello.

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