Dressed to the Sixes

[Photo provided to China Daily]

He returned to Hong Kong and worked for another 18 months as a creative director for a Guangzhou brand while teaching fashion at Hong Kong Polytechnic University. "I wasn't used to working back home," he admits. "It motivated me to start my own label."

For his Fall/Winter 2013 concept, he played with the idea that everyone is chasing after silver linings and drew inspiration from light installation artists. The overall idea is layering, with a white shirt in between the bottom and top peaking through to resemble a waistcoat.

Typical silhouettes include high waists and cropped jackets inspired by Jewish garments. Trousers include an overlapping layer that resembles Thai fisherman pants and deliberately expose the ankles for an unexpected flash of flesh. Details abound, such as lapels put together with two different fabrics and trousers with buckles at the rear to adjust their sizes.

Lee used a range of blue fabrics in tartan and checkered patterns to mix and match different pieces. Sourced from a Tuscan mill, the fabrics are classics yet include contemporary patterns.

"I like to play with different lengths to change proportions," explains Lee. "I use the same fabric in different ways, such as a piece of cloth that can be tied as an accessory. For my third season, I intend to broaden my collection so that it includes pieces for normal-size men, not just tall and skinny ones."

He enjoys working at his Fo Tan studio in Hong Kong because he gets the best of Chinese tailoring and choice of factories. "Prices are reasonable compared to European factories," he says. "My garments are produced in China but use Italian fabrics. If I hadn't returned home, I probably wouldn't have started my own brand so soon."

Lee is very hands on with everything that happens in his studio, drawing at night and working on administrative tasks or visiting factories during the day. "Right now, I am sending my Fall/Winter collection abroad to buyers who have placed orders and checking the quality before they are packed," he says.

Although his brand has caught the eye of many influential fashion editors, including Suzy Menkes, and he has been named the ambassador for this year's Business of Design Week in Hong Kong, Lee remains humble.

"I would love to open a flagship shop in Antwerp," says Lee. "Eventually, I hope to have a show in Paris, as I think it is the most influential stage in the world. I am very lucky that my followers in China can accept very conceptual styles."