Diving in the Marshall Islands with tuna, turtles and wrecks

There's little catering for tourists, which is charming in its own way. We went to a cafe in search of what is apparently the island's only espresso machine - only to find that it had broken down. Perhaps the lack of caffeine is a good thing, though, in place that is so relaxed, and where the people are unfailingly friendly and welcoming.

Most scuba divers that come to this part of the world tend to head to the World War II wrecks found around Palau and the Micronesian island state of Chuuk. Some make a stop at the Marshall Islands along the way.

The Marshall Islands also have stunning wreck diving in the Bikini Atoll, although getting there is only for the adventurous. From April through November, the Bikini government helps organize a handful of trips in which divers live aboard a boat for two weeks and are told of the atoll's history.

After the war, Bikini was at the center of the US nuclear testing program. One of those tests sank the USS Saratoga (CV3), an aircraft carrier that is now a favorite for divers. It remains unsafe to eat fish from the Bikini lagoon. Perhaps ironically, that has led to an explosion of sea life there.

If you go

Getting there: United is the only major carrier to fly to the Marshall Islands. Tiny Nauru Airlines also offers some flights. United flights are relatively expensive and depart from Honolulu just three times each week, so it's important to leave plenty of time for connections.

Where to stay: Marshall Islands Resort is located in the capital, Majuro, http://www.marshallislandsresort.net/.

What to do: Raycrew dives are operated from an office in the hotel complex by Hiroaki Ueda at about $75 per dive, depending on the trip.