Paris fashions cater to women's many moods
(Agencies)
Updated: 2004-10-11 09:24

A model presents a creation as part of Italian designer Valentino's 2005 Spring-Summer ready-to-wear fashion collection in Paris, October 10, 2004. [Reuters]

Paris designers pulled out the stops as the spring-summer ready-to-wear shows headed into their final stretch, presenting outfits fit for socialites, fashion victims and working mothers. Valentino specializes in what could be called the Liz Hurley school of dressing, and he devoted the bulk of his collection on Sunday to luxurious daywear for ladies-who-lunch.

The humble parka was given a glamorous makeover, appearing in lime taffeta paired with floaty tiered chiffon skirts in multicolored stripes.

Valentino, famed for dressing celebrities on Oscar night, sent out rippling silk gowns with satin ribbon or pearl belts looped through large metallic eyelets shimmering with crystals.

"Fashion must find the right balance between reality and glamour. In order to have a meaning, clothes must be closely suited to the lives of women today," he said in a statement.

But La Liz can rest easy. Valentino's concept of reality leaves room for accessories such as a necklace of oversized pearls with a crystal pendant the size of a child's fist.

Sixties socialite parties with London "It" girl at the Glastonbury festival -- that was the unlikely premise for John Galliano's show late on Saturday and an excuse for a riotous celebration of rock deities from John Lennon to Kurt Cobain.

Models trailing helium balloons paraded in outfits ranging from shredded denim blazers and psychedelic-patterned flares to Schiaparelli-pink evening gowns with lavish bead embroidery.

A model presents a creation by French designer Stephane Rolland for fashion house Scherrer's 2005 Spring-Summer ready-to-wear fashion collection in Paris, October 10, 2004. [Reuters]

Galliano said the show was inspired by Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton and Sienna Miller, the stylish British actress who is dating Jude Law.

That made for witty touches like a shocking pink tufted chiffon poodle embroidered on the back of a frayed denim coat.

Pillbox hats with little veils drew approving nods from Dita Von Teese, the burlesque dancer and girlfriend of shock rocker Marilyn Manson, who arrived at the show dressed like a 1940s film star in a black satin skirt suit and elaborate feather hat.

Galliano proved he could appeal to the older generation too.

"I loved it all. Absolutely, he is just the greatest designer going today, without any question," San Francisco socialite Dodie Rosenkrans told Reuters after the show.

Phoebe Philo's knack for dressing women of her generation has turned her into one of the key players in Paris fashion since she took over the house of Chloe in 2001.

The British designer, seven months pregnant with her first child, drew wild applause with her display of pleated dresses in mouthwatering shades of pink and sky blue that summed up next summer's flirtatious new mood. Military-style cropped jackets and pleated white tuxedo shirts gave a masculine edge to gathered cotton skirts, edged with contrasting ribbons or rows of silver sequins.

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