Global catwalk struts into China

Although it is difficult to break into the Chinese market, Peter Caplowe has made it much easier by starting a fashion trade show in Hong Kong. Zou Hong / China Daily

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The Economist Intelligence Unit has suggested that China, the world's biggest clothing manufacturer, is now at the center of what will soon be the fashion world's biggest retail market.

Driven by demand from China's rapidly expanding middle class, the EIU said the annual value of the mainland clothing and apparel market is expected to be more than $90 billion by 2015.

Tokyo blew its chance to be the fashion hub of Asia because it remained insular and refused to "adapt to the global system", Caplowe says.

The Milan of the East has yet to be crowned, and all eyes are now on China.

"There isn't a center for fashion in Asia," Caplowe says.

"Chinese business culture is dynamic and fast moving. I think it's likely that the center of branded fashion will be in Greater China."

Caplowe made his mark in the 1990s when he turned a small, boutique Japanese jeans brand, Evisu, into a nearly global success story worth about $100 million at its peak.

After cutting ties with the company in 2007, Caplowe, now based in Hong Kong, turned to consultancy.

"During that time when I was talking to a lot of Chinese companies, it was clear to me that a lot of them were interested in tying up with international brands, but they didn't know how to do it.

"It sort of just became clear to me that there would be a trade show in Asia where international brands come to meet Chinese retailers. I thought it might as well be me who did it."

Caplowe says "most of the large" Chinese retail operators attended the inaugural Hub event last month, which featured stalls from about 100 internationally branded fashion and apparel companies, including almost all of the top names in US street fashion.

"It is not the case that most big American and European brands are here in China already," Caplowe says.

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