New courtyard not real deal

The previous location of Haitangju (House of Crab Apple) Restaurant was a courtyard house with a yard encircled by a stream with golden fish in it. There was a bridge, trees and flowers, and a swing under a crab apple tree, after which the place was named. The relaxed feeling of sitting in a Beijing-style courtyard below tree branches made it worth coming back for.

Alas, the old courtyard house has been demolished, to make way for a wide road. Fortunately, the owner has found a new site, also a courtyard house, at Deshengmennei Dajie. In addition to redoing the traditional dcor, he has also developed new dishes. But everything looks too new, compared with the comfy feeling of the old place.

The central yard has a grand glass ceiling with a beautiful crystal chandelier. Although this protects the yard from the elements, it detracts from the authentic courtyard experience - and cuts off the energy flow between heaven and earth that courtyard houses were designed to encourage.

Fortunately, the food is the same high quality, and comes at the same high-end prices. Recommended are deep-fried fin from spotted grouper - delicate and fragrant - and the eatery's signature drink, crab apple wine. The drink is sweet and sour, with a bit of alcohol in it.

The owner's humor and wisdom is reflected in such dishes as "one turnip" - sliced turnip braised in broth and saffron served in hot pot, giving it a rich and smooth taste. There is also "one steamed bread", in which steamed bread slices are paired with foie gras.

Meat lovers can try Haitang "first-class" pot, with pheasant, wild duck and tortoise meats, which are supposed to be replenishing and have a tasty broth.

11-2pm, 5-10pm. 202 Deshengmennei Dajie, Xicheng district. 8328-3188