Private culinary designs

Suckling pig, one of the staples of Hong Kong cuisine, is also a Yin Yang signature dish. Provided to China Daily

Ambience is part of the dining experience and two of Hong Kong's best private chefs draw upon design backgrounds to make it a gastronomic delight. Sits down to sample it all.

In hectic Hong Kong, family meals lovingly prepared with traditional recipes have slowly become the casualties of entire generations who don't cook. It is no wonder that the private kitchens are flourishing.

These establishments are often small and homey, with fixed menus that vary according to seasons and the chef's whims. But they are often memorable dining experiences with dishes so unique that they become talking points long after the last round of tea is poured.

Jacky Yu began experimenting with cooking while he ran a successful graphic design firm. Through trial and error, he created dishes he enjoyed eating - sometimes from just the memory of a wonderful meal he had on holiday. In 2000, he opened Xi Yan, a private kitchen in Wanchai within walking distance of his office and the Wanchai market. With its emphasis on savory dishes that combine Asian flavors, Xi Yan quickly amassed a loyal following.

"Xi Yan's cuisine is fundamentally modern Chinese, but brings together diverse Asian culinary cultures," Yu explains. "This eclectic combination has created an exciting new approach to food not only in terms of taste, but also in the refreshing presentation which underscores the concept of food as art."

As Xi Yan's main chef, Yu is responsible for everything that comes out of the kitchen. He has given up his graphic design company to devote all of his attention to the restaurant.

That includes photography, menu design, interior design and how each dish is styled. His careful attention to detail means that Xi Yan has a distinct look and style.

Yu recommends his fresh mushrooms in bean curd thick soup, awarded Gold with Distinction Award at this year's Hong Kong Tourism Board's Best of the Best Culinary Awards. Other favorites are the fragrant roasted chicken in black truffle, and custard glutinous dumplings with sweet potato ginger soup, the latter an innovative twist on a traditional Cantonese dessert.

Like Yu, Margaret Xu worked as a graphics designer at her own business after stints in large advertising agencies.

"I have no formal training but I have been cooking all my life," says Xu. "Cooking is my passion and my hobby. Once, I developed recipes while I was styling for Knorr, one of my clients - they were so impressed that they wanted to use those recipes."

She started with one table in her village house in rural Yuen Long and had guests over a couple of times each week. Then, as her waiting list grew, she knew something had to give.

After falling in love with a historic three-story building on Ship Street, she approached the landlord, the Urban Renewal Authority. URA agreed to rent her the space and Yin Yang was born.

The restaurant offers 30 seats, with the kitchen on the second floor. Xu takes pride in bringing out the natural flavors of food, with most fruits and vegetables coming from her organic farm in Yuen Long.

She has a stone grinder to make tofu from scratch and giant terracotta pots for roasting chicken and duck.

She believes there is a need for authentic Hong Kong fusion food, and is constantly experimenting with seasonal versions of traditional favorites as well as new creations.

Signature dishes popular during the holidays include roast baby pig served with pineapple marmalade.

The bite of ginger enhances the subtle flavors of the crispy pork, while its touch of red comes from the traditional Hakka technique of using red rice in the brine.

"Too many private kitchens are restaurants," says Xu. "I think the best ones are like someone's home, where you can enjoy recipes that can't be found anywhere else."

Xi Yan is at 3/F, 83 Wanchai Road, Wanchai, and you need to call ahead for reservations at 852 2575 6966. To book a table at Yin Yang, call 852 2866 0868. The address is 18 Ship Street, Wanchai.