Hengshan hideaway

The dessert platter starts with almond tea, an almond tart, almond jelly and finally, ends with candied almonds.                                 Photos by Pauline D. Loh / China Daily

Deep in the old French Concession, a thoroughly modern facade looks onto a street full of Rodeo Drive type boutiques. Pauline D. Loh plumbs the hidden delights.

The magnolias are magnificent. In the bright sunshine of the Shanghai spring, the soft pink and white blooms dazzled the eyes as they commanded pride of place within the central atrium garden of the new Twelve at Hengshan hotel.

My cabdriver had been surprised there was such a posh hotel along that familiar road.

No wonder, since the hotel only opened late last year. I am sure, however, it is going to be a firm favorite among the elite Shanghai visitors who lean toward a more aesthetic choice in accommodation.

It is a Starwood hotel under its Luxury Collection, which is a sure guarantee of quality, but it is also a high-end business boutique hotel that is only six stories high and awash with junior and grand suites.

It stands to reason then that its Chinese restaurant should be up to entertaining the best palates in town.

The decor is very pleasing, and well decorated without being intimidating as with many upmarket restaurants.

The menu is largely Cantonese, designed by Singaporean-Chinese chef Chung Kuy Fai, who'd cut his culinary teeth in America, and later in China, with an illuminating stint at Jereme Leung's famous Whampoa Club on the Bund.

However, it being Shanghai, you can still see many benbang (local Shanghainese) characteristics, such as the classic braised wheat gluten kaofu appetizer and a use of the miniature vegetables so beloved by local gourmets.

We had first pea shoots of the season blanched in rich golden chicken stock and topped with quivering squares of fried beancurd garnished with a seaweed hat and deep-fried shredded scallops. The flavors were intricately layered and textured.