Guardian of good taste

Yun Hai guarantees original tastes of Korean cuisine either by barbecued meats like pork belly.

The meat has to be top quality. Then it has to be quickly prepared, with enough speed so it arrives at the table still so well chilled and you can still feel the ice crystals in the beef julienne at first bite.

Next, the doenjang or beanpaste must be just right, neither too sweet, too spicy nor too salty. The lone egg yolk that tops the little hill of raw beef must be so fresh that it can stand on its own and the whole salad, when thoroughly mixed, should be tempting enough that you cannot stop eating.

I liked that the portion at Yun Hai was also just large enough to satisfy and there were no leftovers that day. It was very quickly demolished and a very clean plate went back into the kitchen as testimony to its goodness.

Instead of the usual little platters that adorn the table, Yun Hai serves its appetizers in a large porcelain carousel, which pleases the eye and whets the appetite.

They did provide a separate serving of cabbage kimchi, which we would eat together with the barbecued beef short ribs and pork belly. It was a thoughtful gesture.

For the bulgogi, diners are asked if they would like to barbecue the meats at the table or choose to have it done in the kitchen and brought in, if they prefer not to have the smell of smoke clinging on their clothes and hair.

The beef short ribs were tasty and tender, and although the pork seemed pretty fatty, the grilling rendered the slices into moist morsels.

A large bowl of salad leaves and a selection of sauces accompanied the meat, and we happily wrapped up with lettuce, watermelon radishes and carrots, with the requisite cabbage kimchi sandwiched inside as well.