Michelin chef, Chinese

Crispy lobster with oatmeal is one of Mok's recommends.[Photo by Pauline D. Loh/China Daily]

It was, however, the appetizer trio that solicited the first "wows" from the table. The char siew, or chashao, was melt-in-the-mouth tender and a close examination of the menu explains it. These little morsels are from the Kurobuta or Berkshire black pig, the Wagyu of pork.

Next up was a single oyster, marinated in a secret blend of sauces and then grilled and presented in a lettuce cup. It really needed no other adornment and it shows off the chef's confidence. If there is one oyster you have to eat, it is this one. It fills the mouth with a fulfilling satisfaction, and although I usually prefer my oysters au naturel, this one I would eat, and often.

The same full flavors extend to the thick broth that was served next, a tomato-based stock that had generous slices of fish maw in it. Fish maw, of course, is the stomach of large fish that is dried and then lovingly rehydrated in top stock. It is full of natural collagen and sticky with fish protein.

Normally, chefs would need to add lashings of ginger or pepper to get rid of the fishiness. Chef Mok chooses to use the tartness of tomato, which also enhances the umami fullness of the broth.

You must then try the deconstructed crab and vermicelli from the chef's signature menu. This is where he acknowledges the influence of Singapore cuisine and his years working there.

A portion of sweet crab is accompanied by tiers of deep-fried rice noodles, creating a dish that is a nod to the crabmeat beehoon so popular at Singapore seafood restaurants.

Another of Mok's signature dishes is a crispy lobster with oatmeal, again a refined and definitely more up-market version of the prawns with crispy cereals that is a must-order as part of the Singapore seafood experience.

As cuisines merge and blend, some show a hardiness that outlasts others. Chef Mok proves that the Cantonese traditions will probably last for generations to come.