Small on fare, big on flavor

Deep-fried mushrooms. Photos by Belle Taylor / China Daily

Next were the deep-fried mushrooms. The delicacy of this dish speaks to the quality of the ingredients used at Hani Gejiu. The mushrooms were crispy without being cluggy with just the right amount of bite and had retained their earthy flavor.

We had debated whether to order the Hani-Style Roast Fish or the fried goat cheese with Yunnan ham and pepper as our big main dish. Having tried the latter on a previous visit, it was tempting to return to an old favorite. The ham had been delicious - perfectly salted, top-quality meat - and the goat cheese was lightly fried to melt-in-your-mouth perfection. But deciding to mix it up, we went for the fish. We were not disappointed.

It was actually two fish that arrived at the table. They were nice and crispy on the skin but the flesh was perfectly cooked, firm and moist. Again, this dish spoke of the care the kitchen at Hani Gejiu takes in sourcing top-quality ingredients

The restaurant has a wine list better than most. Local beer is, of course, available. But for those who can't face another Dali, there is a small, but well-curated selection of wines, with France, the US and Australia all represented. Unusually, there is also a sparkling wine on offer, the Italian Bisol Bel Star Prosecco, reasonably priced at 190 yuan ($31) a bottle.

Hani Gejiu is slightly more expensive than other Yunnan restaurants in the same area. But it differentiates itself with its elegance, top-quality ingredients and small, but perfectly formed, wine list.

The limited menu may mean the kitchen can focus on doing a little well, but they run the risk of alienating the hardcore fans of Yunnan food, who may balk at the absence of a favorite dish, and the lack of green vegetables is puzzling.

The brief menu might work a little better if there was more of an explanation of the reasons behind its brevity. It certainly feels as if a lot of thought and care has gone into curating it, but the lack of information can leave the diner wondering if the chef's repertoire is simply limited. The food itself speaks of the kitchen's talents, it would be nice to see them more challenged.