Cafe Deco remains a favorite, despite the naysayers

Calamari Fritti. Rebecca Lo / For China Daily

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A scan of the drinks list revealed more than half a dozen wines by the glass priced from HK$68 ($8.77) to HK$128. Bottles were predominantly from Australia and New Zealand with a few French and Italian labels. There were also signature cocktails, including a sparkling mango concoction that I fancied trying. I also noticed that daily lunch specials were available with starter, choice of four mains and dessert ranging from HK$138 to HK$168.

By then, the rest of my friends had arrived and we decided to try a few starters before the main attractions of pasta and pizzas.

Calamari fritti was served in a small metal pot and came with a wedge of lemon. I liked how the creamy aioli complemented the deep-fried squid's natural sweetness, and admittedly popped more into my mouth than my fair share.

Pan-roasted scallops were topped with generous slices of Parma ham and accompanied by a simply dressed mesclun salad. They were savory and succulent, with the seafood's tenderness offset by the crispy, robust ham.

I was determined to try Cafe Deco Pizzeria's signature dish of Moroccan lamb pizza, as lamb on a pizza is something I've never experienced. The lamb was juicy and its gamey pungency was offset by dollops of mint yogurt. I particularly loved the baby spinach that gave the dish a splash of color and enhanced texture.

Beef ragout rigatoni was a hearty accompaniment to the pizza. The pasta's ridges and hollow center were full of the rich and meaty tomato-based sauce, and the sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano gave the dish bite.

We finished with rocky-road calzone, an inventive take on the traditionally savory Italian pie. Topped with a yummy chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of tiny marshmallows, its flaky pastry went well with the vanilla ice cream on the side.

I concluded that despite Cafe Deco Pizzeria's lack of an Italian chef, it was still delicious soul food that I can return to again and again.