Guangzhou savors old-fashioned Cantonese fare

I particularly loved the crunch of the radish peel and its presentation in the shape of a flower gave the dish visual appeal adjacent to a net of carrot sticks. Its sour note gave way to a savory soy fragrance that lingered, yielding a pleasant surprise that such a simple dish could contain so much depth of flavor.

I also loved the double-boiled fish maw with baby pak choi in superior broth. Truly a warming bowl of heaven for the winter months, the fish maw was so tender that a nudge shredded it to pieces. The broth was crystal clear and piping hot, infused with delicate flavors that perfectly complimented the vegetable's firmness.

We then tried a few of the stir fries: sauteed diced beef tenderloin in black-pepper sauce and sauteed king prawns with wasabi mayonnaise. The beef was clearly the winner for me. Sprinkled with paper-thin deep-fried garlic and fresh scallions, it was succulent, tender and drenched in a pepper sauce that provided a gorgeous counterpoint to the meat's freshness.

The shrimps were plump and cooked to perfection, but not as memorable. Ditto goes for Man Ho's crispy chicken: the skin was indeed crunchy and gave way to moist and flavorful chicken, but it was not a standout among the dishes we had.

What was a home run was dessert: double-boiled custard in coconut. The soothing and velvety custard included the finest young coconut elevated to a sublime realm of comfort on a chilly day. It was a dessert fit for emperors and kings.