Amalfi reconstructed

The panoramic views from Tosca stretch beyond Victoria Peak. Provided to China Daily

My pasta course was another surprise. Spaghetti alla chitarra resembled a large and over-stuffed cannelloni, with the strands cleverly tucked away only to be dramatically revealed when I tucked into it.

It was flavored with basil chlorophyll, which tinted the spaghetti green, while the wrapper was made from swordfish. Baby squid and black olive oil gave the dish a robust flavor reminiscent of the sea, while the chlorophyll lent a fresh, earthy note.

In between courses, I perused the bread basket. Tosca offers a daily selection of freshly baked goods such as mini bagels, rolls and savory muffins. I chose a lemon-infused dark rye that had the ideal combination of crisp exterior and fragrantly moist center and munched on it with gusto.

A main of tuna steak with white eggplant tartare, souffle potato, caper-scented sauce and caramelized caper was both light and substantial. Perfectly pink tuna was thick and scrumptiously lean, while the eggplant's airiness provided a lovely juxtaposition. The addition of caper underscored the seafood's freshness with its delicate brine that reminded me of beachside suppers.

Dessert was an artfully presented chestnut bar with caviar olive oil and Gianduja chocolate layers. The dusting of icing sugar and more edible flowers set off the intense chestnut flavor, while gold leaf added a luxurious sparkle to the sweetness.

Sighing with contentment, I concluded that Lavarra's interpretation of southern Italian seafood was truly a feast for all the senses - and an inventively delightful way to represent the region on a plate.