Glamour plate

Seared Australian veal tenderloin with a morel mushroom "cream".Photo Provided to China Daily

The mains are generous enough at Parnas that nobody at our table went home hungry. Wagyu beef, with tangy onion jam and red-wine jus, begs for a quick snap photo before you dig in. Even prettier is the lamb, with its swipes of beetroot puree; creamy polenta and saffron endive complete another picture-perfect plate.

On another visit, we savored another winning combination: cured beef tenderloin with soya dressing, a poached quail egg, bearnaise espuma and candied bresaola.

The candlelit ambience makes this a nice destination for a romantic dinner for two. Other amenities you expect from a fine French restaurant are spot-on here: A respectable wine list and extremely polished service.

Naturally, your sweet tooth will be catered to with panache: Fans of French chocolate say there's none better, and the dark chocolate cake could make believers out of even jealous Belgians. The kitchen gives the dessert texture with sprinkles of caramelized nougat, and provides a swath of orange custard for furtive dipping. If you're not in the mood for chocolate, try the passion fruit chibouste with vanilla-orange coulis and dabs of basil gel for a sweet-and-sour finish.

For afters, drop down to the first-floor bar for a nightcap, or if the night is fine, head for the rooftop deck where champagne and caviar await. Whether you think one last burst of ooh-lah-lah is tedious, funny or simply your due, it's a grand way to finish the evening.

If you go:

Parnas

1/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun North Road, Chaoyang district, Beijing. 010-5288-7665.

Average cost per person: 400 yuan ($64).

Recommended: Chilled Seafood Tian in Gazpacho, Seared Australian Veal Tenderloin with a Morel Mushroom "Cream", Butter Potato Mousseline, Spinach Puree, Baby Carrot and Balsamic Glaze; Cured Beef Tenderloin with Soya Dressing, Bearnaise Espuma, Poached Quail Egg and Candied Bresaola.