Painting the town bright red

FRANCOPHILE: Stephane Liu is a total convert when it comes to French culinary culture. [Photo provided to Shanghai Star]

At Lyon, where he was originally enrolled as a student, Liu was listening to his dormitory mate's daily adventures at cooking school. It was what he wanted to do, he decided, but he had to face one major hurdle — his parents.

They did not want him to get into the backbreaking business of cooking for others, but their son convinced them with his unwavering enthusiasm. Liu took off after that. He applied for and got into the prestigious Institute Paul Bocuse and began eight years of serious study, training and working under great chefs like Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse.

The Michelin-standard discipline is immediately apparent in Paris Rouge, his first volley fired. In the short months that the restaurant has opened its doors in the little cobble-stoned lane in a part of Shanghai so reminiscent of France, Liu has created continuity indoors as well.

The whole ambience within the restaurant is very French, from the décor to the people, including the smooth suave restaurant manager to the French sommelier who looks as if he has just finished a catwalk season with Christian Dior.

Through the open window that allows diners to watch their meal being cooked, Liu is on stage, spinning out French classics with passion and precision from moules mariniere to a vacheron meringue.

The chef says he’s driven and inspired by fresh ingredients, and he creates spontaneously when he is excited by what he sees. He believes this passion must be translated into what he offers his diners.

It is also what he demands from his kitchen staff, from apprentices to head chefs.