Shaoxing strives to rejuvenate rice wine's aging spirit

Rice wine divides into four varieties spread across a spectrum of dry to sweet. The drink is often served with traditional salted snacks such as fava beans (pictured). [Photo by Richard Whiddington/chinadaily.com.cn]

The statement would certainly excite those involved in Shaoxing's famous industry; it longs to shirk the old image of rice wine and avail itself to younger taste buds.

One such individual is Shaoxing native Bo Hong, vice president of local brewing giant China Shaoxing Rice Wine Group. Bo is quietly passionate and swears by the health benefits of consuming a little Shaoxing spirit daily- he prefers the dry variety.

Despite producing an industry high 5 billion tons in 2015, Bo is cautious in his optimism and believes things need to slow down for the rice wine industry to fully flourish, a touching but somewhat paradoxical notion given the helter-skelter nature of Shaoxing's development.

"Modern society in China is changing too fast. Chinese people, the young in particular, should slow down and enjoy life."

After strolling amid Shaoxing's rustic, monochrome buildings, it is easy to grasp the allure of Bo's point. From the hundreds of years spent producing some batches of rice wine, to the laidback environment in which the drink is best enjoyed, the wine perfectly complements the meandering canals crisscrossing the city.

"The character of the wine is slow and mellow, exactly our marketing strategy for selling rice wine."

However, the relaxed tone Bo exudes stands contrary to the proactive steps his company is taking in marketing, research, and product development. The challenge for his company's future is remaining relevant and appealing in a highly competitive market place.

Currently, Baijiu, China's ubiquitous spirit of choice, holds over 60% market sales. Factor in the encroaching popularity of imported foreign alcohols, such as wine which saw 26.8% growth of sales in 2015, and the precarious position of rice wine becomes blindingly apparent.

One reaction has been the creation of rice wine alcopop drinks, fruity low-alcohol drinks, sold online and in local shops. Scan Taobao and you'll find a gluttony of competitors offering a rainbow of flavors.