Fungi expert shares secrets of mushrooms

[Photo/Eric Soudan/Borde]

How are wild mushrooms different from cultivated ones?

The former grow naturally in forests, without any human intervention, and are gathered by hand. Quantities vary greatly from one season to the next – and from one location to the next. It's impossible to predict what the harvest will be.

While there's no difference between a wild mushroom and one cultivated from the same mycelium, most wild mushrooms such as porcini, chanterelles and black trumpets remain impossible to cultivate. The Chinese cultivate certain types, such as morels, and experiments are being done in France. However, there are so many factors that need to be controlled – temperature, moisture, proper mycelium development – that growing them is still a very uncertain and not necessarily economically worthwhile venture.

What's the best way to preserve a mushroom after picking it?

The best "technology" to use depends on the type. Morels are best dried, chanterelles should be preserved in glass jars and freezing is best for porcinis.

What's the best way to cook them and what are some ideal wine pairings?

Mushrooms can be cooked very simply by pan-frying them with garlic and parsley, or can be prepared in more sophisticated ways. Although recipes reflect a country's gastronomic traditions and culture, some are very similar from one to another. For example, in Yunnan, mushrooms are cooked with herbs and the recipes are very similar to French ones.

As for pairings, a chicken cooked in cream with morels is delicious when served with a Jura yellow wine. And you can't go wrong with a Bordeaux, especially the Pomerols, with their woodsy notes recalling the scent of mushrooms. A white Burgundy like chardonnay or a young Rh?ne such as a Condrieu goes marvellously well with sautéed chanterelles.

[Photo/Eric Soudan/Borde]