Editor's note: This week Maggie Beale examines the unfiltered wines of Newton Vineyards, often referred to as 'One of the most gorgeous mountain estates in California'.

Although it's a matter of personal taste, unfiltered wines are favorites of many connoisseurs. Winemaking using techniques based on an old-world style include natural fermentation and bottling without filtration. And that is what they do at Newton Vineyards with many of their red Bordeaux varietals and cool climate, marine-influenced Chardonnays.

Proprietors Su Hua and Peter Newton are widely acclaimed as California wine trailblazers for their adherence to natural made wines. Situated on Spring Mountain, on the eastern flank of the Mayacamas range, Newton was one of the first wineries in the area when it was established in 1977.

Grapes are handpicked in small lots and gently pressed only. The winery is custom-designed to allow lots from 112 distinct parcels to ferment separately, allowing the winemaker many different options when constructing final blends. Barrel aging takes place in a cool cave built into the mountain directly beneath the winery.

Newton is recognized as an American pioneer of unfiltered wines, a philosophy that maximizes all the subtle characters of the fruit. The three Newton unfiltered wines tasted were Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, fermented with yeasts found naturally in the vineyard, all are big wines and very fruit-forward.

Grapes for the powerful Chardonnay are grown on the Newton estate in the Carneros region and other marine-influenced, cooler climate sites ideal for full richly flavored wines. Red grapes are grown on the Spring Mountain estate.

Opening on the nose with lime and lemon flowers, the Newton Chardonnay 2006 unfiltered is richly fruity with an attractive creamy nose and full body. A classic, powerful wine, it has notes of freshly cut coconut, toffee and toasted almonds on the palate blossoming into yellow peaches and mango with a touch of honeycomb and mineral on the finish. For an ambrosial experience, match this wine with grilled salmon or black cod, steamed or grilled crayfish and lobster - served with a buttery dip/sauce. It is full enough to accompany Thai-style grilled pork neck.

The Newton Merlot 2002 has aromas of summer fruits such as apricots, longans, Chinese peaches and lush strawberries. There's more than a hint of ripe plums coming through mid palate as well as black cherries. A sensuous wine with a powerful structure and well-balanced acidity, it is a perfect foil for roast duck, saddle of venison with a red wine reduction sauce and jugged hare. Great with pasta such as linguine with truffle oil and black olive sauce.

The unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 is an exceptionally well-balanced wine. A deep purple tinged red, on the nose it opens with dark chocolate and coffee aromas quickly followed by blackcurrant, cut vanilla pods, black pepper with an enticing hint of black truffle and mineral. Silkily textured it is sensuous, round and supple, with ripe velvety tannins. First impressions on the palate are black cherries, full-blown red roses and rosemary. This wine should age nicely for 20 years and more. The 2002 was the last great vintage until the 2005, Su Hua Newton completely declassified the 2003 and 2004 vintages, as she just wasn't happy with them.

Go all out with this one, a luscious wine full of fine characteristics, it's not a wine to take with anything less than an opulent game or meat dish. A grilled lamb rack served with porcini mushroom sauce, beef cooked with marrow bones and winter vegetables, Osso Buco or cheeses such as Camembert, Parmegiano Reggiano, or roasted vegetables served with a simple yogurt and Danish Blue cheese sauce.

A lot of work has been done on the effects of filtration on the taste of wine by the University of Bordeaux II and the upshot is this: filtration does remove some macromolecular components that, in and of themselves, may not have a direct mouthfeel component, but these macromolecules help to stabilize flavor and texture and do in fact contribute to this important area of wine organoleptics (evaluating wine with the senses of sight, smell, and taste, rather than by a scientific or chemical examination. In other words, it's all a matter of personal taste.

Maggie Beale can be contacted at: wineexpert1@hotmail.com

(HK Edition 07/29/2008 page4)