At this time of year, steaks and chops best suited to the grill or skillet (frying pan) come into their own. So it's the time to review the best methods of cooking meats to tender juicy perfection.

Marbling is desirable with beef, and most people will know the cut of meat they prefer and the degree of doneness required on a hot grill or frypan, but a brief rule of thumb is: a 1-inch (2.5cm) thick beef steak such as sirloin or rump requires 2 minutes on each side for rare; 3 minutes on each side for medium; and about 4 minutes on each side for well done. A fillet steak 1-inches (4 cm) thick should be cooked for 4 minutes each side for rare, 5 minutes on each side for medium; and 6 minutes each for well done.

Pork chops should have some marbling for taste and be cooked thoroughly for 10 minutes on each side.

A much under rated meat, lamb is the mainstay of some of the oldest cooking traditions on earth, including lamb chops grilled to tender pink doneness such as I had recently at Jimmy's Kitchen Central.

Some people dislike the smell of lamb, if so, then try soaking lamb chops in milk for 5 minutes (in the refrigerator) immediately before cooking. Or marinate the lamb in olive oil and rosemary for 20 minutes or so.

Do follow the safer practice of keeping meat refrigerated right up to the last minute before cooking.

A rack of lamb (8 ribs) may be impressive but too much for one person. A better choice for dinner for one is a brace (2) of lamb chops grilled or cooked in a frypan until they are pink in the middle with the fat done to crisp perfection.

I find the best lamb chops are loin, rib or sirloin so ask the butcher for details. The meat should be light red in color, finely textured with smooth, white fat. Marinate a shoulder or leg chop to make it tender. Marbling is not as important with lamb as it is with beef, and the chops should be 1- inch thick and cooked for 4 minutes each side. Timing varies according to the thickness of the meat, so insert a wooden skewer into the thickest part to gauge the colour; red is less cooked, light and clear is well done.

To marinate, put 2 lamb chops in a re-sealable bag along with 2 Tbsp olive oil, 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar, 2 cloves minced garlic, 1 Tbsp chopped rosemary, 1 tspn Dijon mustard, pinch of black pepper. Shake and refrigerate for 1 hour. Don't add salt before cooking, it leaches out the moisture.

In the meantime, make a mint sauce from a handful of washed fresh mint, chop the leaves finely and discard the stems. Add 2 fl ozs (4 Tbsp) boiled water, 1 Tbsp sugar. Leave aside for 10 minutes add 2 fl ozs cider vinegar and a good pinch of salt and stir well. Keep in a covered jar until the rest of the dinner is ready.

Choose a pan with a thick solid base and put the pan over direct heat and let the pan become hot before you add oil or some marinade and the meat. Cook on each side for 3 minutes. Then holding firmly with cooking tongs, hold each chop on its side so that the fat is in direct contact with the hot surface for 2 minutes. I also find that scoring the fat in several places allows it to brown better.

To grill chops cook over a medium high heat for about 4 minutes per side until browned to desired doneness. Let the chops rest for a few minutes once they are cooked. Don't overcook!

Seasoning, marinade, sauce: Lamb goes well with garlic, rosemary, thyme, oregano, mint and mustard. To make a rub cover the chop with a thin coating of olive oil and lightly sprinkle on the seasonings before cooking.

Potatoes are the perfect foil for lamb chops. Peel and cut 3 potatoes into batons and rinse well in cold water for 10 minutes. Cover with iced water and refrigerate for 1 hour. Pat very dry very carefully and blanch in batches in abundant vegetable oil at 350C (180F). Use a deep pan for this or a dedicated deep fryer and be vigilant as the oil will bubble up as the chips (fries) heat up. After 6 minutes remove the partially cooked potatoes and drain on paper towels. Set aside to rest for 20 minutes. Reheat the oil to 190C (350F) and fry stirring frequently for about 1 or 2 minutes until golden brown and puffy. Sprinkle with salt and serve at once with the lamb chops, redcurrant or mint jelly sauce and English made mustard.

It may seem like a lot of trouble to take to make chips (French fries) but believe me they are worth the effort, and bear no resemblance to the limp, tasteless fries found in many fast-food places.

All you need to make this the perfect British dinner is a touch of French panache with a nice glass of Merlot from Bordeaux or a Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

Food Column

(HK Edition 12/01/2012 page4)