The lands at the ends of the earth

Traditionally, Chinese tourists have fought shy of visiting the poles, but the country's rising economic might and higher incomes mean that the numbers are increasing rapidly, as He Na reports from Beijing.

Whenever he's evaluating a new investment target, the first question that springs into Liu Wenrui's mind is: Does it meet environmental protection standards?

Liu's new found eco-awareness is the result of a trip to Antarctica in the winter of 2011. "I witnessed a huge iceberg collapse right in front of our boat. The massive wave it caused forced us to accelerate to escape the immediate danger. Just a few minutes later, when we slowed down and looked back, the enormous berg had simply disappeared. There was just calm water and it was as if nothing had happened," recalled the 31-year-old executive at an investment company in Shenzhen, Guangdong province.

"I'd heard and read the news about global warming almost every day, but to tell the truth, I didn't pay much attention. It just sounded too far removed from my life, However, when you enter the pure, white world and the only other living creatures around are penguins, you suddenly realize what the rise in sea levels means to these animals, to you and the entire world," he said.

In addition to his new outlook on the selection of investment projects, Liu has also started turning off unnecessary lights and driving less. "I'm not doing this for show. I fully understand that if everyone makes small, daily efforts to reduce carbon emissions, we will be saving ourselves," he said.

Burgeoning market

China's economic growth and the subsequent rise in the general standard of living mean that travel to the Antarctic and the Arctic is no longer a privilege enjoyed only by scientific researchers. An increasing number of businesspeople and white-collar workers are taking the opportunity to visit the world's last great wildernesses, and travel agencies are cashing in on the rising demand with an increasing number of tours to the polar regions.

"Our association was established in 1989, but before 2009 our trips (to the poles) were exclusively related to scientific research. We extended our services to the general public in 2010 and about 40 people joined our tours to the poles. Customer numbers have risen sharply and we've taken more than 100 people already this year. Several more groups are set to visit before the end of the year," said Li Zijing of the China Association for Scientific Expedition.

"Our business will boom next year because, in addition to the general customers, we will also organize a trip for a team of about 100 students," he said.

In 2009, 452 Chinese visited the Antarctic and the number rose to 612 in 2010, according to the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators, an organization dedicated to appropriate, safe and environmentally sound private-sector travel to the region.

Meanwhile, most Chinese travel agencies have now launched polar travel products to provide services for high-end customers. Business is increasing every year.

"In 2009, just 24 people took our first trips to the poles, but in 2010, the numbers increased to 111 to Antarctica and 100 to the Arctic. This year's season hasn't finished yet, but it's sure to register a large increase," said Yu Xueyong, vice-president of Souluniq International Travel Club in Guangzhou, one of China's largest clubs for high-end travelers.

"Our club members are mainly high-income individuals between the ages of 35 to 45. Seventy-four percent of our members are private entrepreneurs, 17 percent are venture capitalists or from private-equity backgrounds, while the rest are company executives and white-collar workers," said Yu.

Chen Jie, product research and development director of Caissa Touristic Co, a Sino-German enterprise, said most of the company's polar tourists are successful individuals aged 35 and older. They generally have stable and comparatively high-income jobs in industries such as information technology and finance.

Splendid isolation

People want to visit the poles because of a deeply held human yearning for nature and harmony, according to Yu Xueyong of Souluniq. "The poles are the world's last continents, and they are more or less unpolluted. They are sacred places in many people's hearts. People coming back from the trips usually have just two words to describe their feelings - 'purity' and 'awe'," he said.

Even though a year has elapsed since Bao Cheng took a trip to the Antarctic, it seems like yesterday. "I never tired of standing on the boat, watching the floating blocks of ice and their clear reflections in the water. When I think of that world, composed entirely of blue and white, it's beyond me to describe its charm," said Bao, owner of a home-decoration company in Beijing.

"When I was in the Antarctic, I was inspired by a kind of awe of nature. I think more wealthy people should purify their souls through a trip like that," he said.

"There's no mobile phone coverage at the South Pole, and when we were on the ship we were totally divorced from the outside world, including business, workloads, pressure and all of life's other cares. My friend told me that the nights he spent in Antarctica provided the smoothest and steadiest sleep he'd ever experienced," said Liu Wenrui.

In addition to the improvements in services and promotional activities, the attractions offered by the countries lying closest to the poles have also contributed to the rise in visitor numbers.

"Although polar travel only accounts for a very small share of the tourist market at present, it has immense potential," said Chen Jie.

"We also hope to use the trips to raise people's environmental awareness. We invite scientific researchers, polar and environmental experts to deliver onboard lectures," he said.

A mature industry

As the cost of polar travel comes more within the means of ordinary citizens, experts said the number of Chinese tourists is expected to hit a record next year.

"However, since polar travel was only introduced in China four to five years ago, many aspects still require improvement, compared with other countries where polar travel has been under development for half a century," admitted Souluniq's Yu.

He urged potential tourists to exercise caution in their choice of travel agency. In common with many developing industries, a lack of regulation and poor management means that Chinese polar tourism is in a phase of disorderly competition, and the levels of service and attention are inevitably variable.

Also, polar travel is still designated as "expeditionary", and concerns about visitor safety have led the government to discourage Chinese citizens from making trips to the regions.

However, it may be that some of the dangers are being overstated. In many countries, 85 percent of polar visitors are aged 65 or older. Visiting the poles during their summer seasons, when the temperature is 0 to 5 C, guarantees reasonably comfortable traveling conditions. Also, polar tourism is now a mature industry and so visitor safety can be guaranteed and the activities are not too taxing physically, said Yu.

"There are good sightseeing bases for both old and young. If the government is willing to change its attitude a little, the market will become more attractive," he said.

"However, difficulty in obtaining visas for embarkation countries is a barrier for individual polar visitors," he added.

"As China's economic power increases, the annual number of Chinese visitors to the poles is expected to surpass 2,000 within three to five years. Although the number of Chinese visiting the poles is still relatively small, in the long run, as incomes rise further, everyday people will become a major force," said Li of the China Association for Scientific Expedition.

Liu has visited many places home and abroad, but last year's visit to Antarctica ranks as his most memorable trip. His girlfriend said he's not a very romantic man, but when the two of them entered the mysterious and unpolluted Antarctic wastes, and Liu told her that it was an "advance honeymoon" she was moved to tears.

"Everyone should visit the poles at least once in their life. I wouldn't hesitate to visit again if I have the time and opportunity," said Liu.

Yang Wanli and Wu Wencong contributed to this story.