Book on wine taster's affair with Burgundy

Wine expert Chantal Chi, 47, has toured around the world in the pursuit of knowledge of wines and the areas where they are produced.

The prolific writer's Chinese book Burgundy Grand Crus (Bourgogne Grands Crus in French) was recently published by China Citic Press.

It introduces 33 grand cru vineyards in Burgundy - one of France's main wine producing regions, and her wine tasting experience. Burgundy is famous for its red and white wines, most of which are made from pinot noir and chardonnay grapes.

"For those who like wine, the happiest moment in life is to have a fantastic glass of wine. You will think of many things while drinking wine, such as strolling in a forest in autumn or in the spring garden," says Chi, who was born in Taiwan and studied Spanish at Fu Jen Catholic University in Taipei.

She once lived in France for more than a decade and also in Singapore and Hong Kong. In October, she moved to Bangkok from Shanghai, where she had been living for nine years.

"Grand cru vineyards are not only the top of a pyramid, but also the soul of Burgundy. I want Chinese consumers to understand Burgundy. Many consumers drink wine without even getting to know the winemaker's philosophy."

Chi has written several books and columns on wine and was awarded the Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit by the French government in 2012 for her contribution to the wine industry.

In April 2013, Chi started her one-month journey to the grand cru vineyards, picking some 60 French estates known for their wines.

She has tasted nearly 500 bottles of wine, of which 460 are grand crus. Their total value is estimated to be 1 million yuan ($161,000).

She says that her visits to the vineyards moved her because the owners and winemakers were willing to share their wines, some of which are very precious, and their valuable time. The annual produce of most estates is limited, and some may only have one oak barrel because grand cru vineyards aren't spread over too vast an area.

"Chi is the most serious writer I've seen. When she's writing on a difficult point, she will send that part to her friends to see whether her words are easily understood," says Wang Yichao, an editor of the book.

Chi says that there are only a few wine books in the world that are focused on grand crus in Burgundy.

She found that some of the information she had gathered during her research was different from what was written in previous books, such as the color of soil at vineyards.

So she spent about six months sending e-mails to winemakers to get the right answers.

"It's the place where I started to learn about wines. I've been to other parts of France, but I still think Burgundy is the most challenging wine producing area," she says.

Her romance with wines can be traced back to 1998, when she moved to Lyons, only half an hour's drive to Burgundy.

She fell in love with the Burgundy wines instantly when she visited the place with her family. It took her three years to understand that area.

"It's difficult to learn from scratch in Burgundy, but that experience laid a good base for me. I feel lucky to have met many fantastic winemakers in Burgundy and they are the best teachers," she says.

"The elite winemakers have extraordinary opinions on wine. Without their guidance, I would not have seen the beauty of the wine world. It changed my life."

She usually visits four estates every day and spends about two hours at each place. She usually tastes wine in the morning because she has a clear head and a sharp taste bud, she says. After that, she tours the winery and walks in the vineyard to dispel the effects of alcohol.

"When I smell the pleasant aromas of wine, I feel as if I've entered the other world," she says.

She takes notes each time she tastes wine, and has already collected many thoughts on the subject.

xulin@chinadaily.com.cn