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With Face

By Neil Yeung (bestfoodinchina.net)
Updated: 2008-11-27 09:08

Tucked into the labyrinthine Ruijin Hotel complex along MaoMing Road is Face - with locations in such far reaching places as Bangkok, Jakarta, Beijing and Pudong – which has been providing Shanghai with upscale South Asian fare since 1999. Hazara, Face’s North Indian restaurant, serves quality cuisine in a typically beautiful environment that has become a Face trademark.

Surrounded by colorful artwork, flowing textiles and pieces of exotic artifacts that look like they were plucked from a desert caravan, diners can enjoy their meal in a relaxed, quiet and fragrant atmosphere. The food, which could be described as “designer” Indian, is not as heavily flavored as other Indian restaurants in town and certainly caters to a specific, neutral palate. The seasonings are pleasant, the ingredients are fresh, and the presentation is clean. While the pricing may be astronomical for those accustomed to frugal dining, it’s important to remember that part of the cost is the environment and overall vibe that characterizes Face.

On this visit, we were treated to a wide assortment of dishes that represent the different facets of Northern Indian fare, which is less spicy than the South and makes expert use of the tandoor oven. Starting with some appetizers, we had some Jheenga Pakoras (128 RMB), Punjabi Samosas (70 RMB), and Kalmi Kabab (100 RMB). The jheenga pakora – huge crunchy prawns fried to crispy perfection – were delicious, reminiscent of Japanese shrimp tempura but with a heartier bite. Punjabi samosas – standards in any Indian restaurant – were good, but the pastry crust was a little too thick, distracting from the tasty, seasoned vegetables inside. The Kalmi Kabab, a special feature on the current Diwali festival menu, was a fantastically tender piece of chicken marinated with cashew nut sauce, Indian cream and some spices. With a spritz of lemon juice on top, it was one of the highlights of the meal.

For mains, we enjoyed the specialty Raan E Hazara (228 RMB), tender lamb marinated overnight that falls apart in the mouth; Dhaal Hazara (118 RMB), a personal favorite made with simmered lentils in a rich, creamy sauce, which goes great with the aforementioned lamb; Murgh Makhni (120 RMB), an almost sweet-and-sour chicken bathed in a thick tomato sauce; and Tandoori Jheenga (228 RMB), monstrous prawns baked in the tandoor. Paired with basmati rice and fresh naan bread, it not only satisfies, but also fills the belly quite quickly.

Depending on sugar tolerance, desserts are also recommended. The Kulfi (58 RMB), a sort of Indian ice cream, and Naram Garam Gulab Jamun (48 RMB), bread dumplings in a hot sugar sauce, are extremely sweet. The latter should be tried just to experience how sugary something can get. Hazara also has an extensive wine list at relatively reasonable prices (about 50 RMB for a glass of house red), fresh coffee, and select choices of Indian chai tea.

After dinner, diners can extend their evening at the neighboring Facebar, which serves up a mean cocktail. The entire, relaxing experience is part of what Face is all about. Classy, high quality, and fresh, for those not on a budget.

Hazara

Location: 118 Ruijin 2 Road, Rui Jin Hotel, Building #4
Tel:021-6466 4328