The old school of cool

Alex Tan (center), Paul Lara (right) and another expat practice tai chi at the roof of The Hutong. Photos by Jiang Dong

Stacey Shine works at an international school in Beijing but her living space is a far cry from the glitzy glass high-rises, where most expatriates reside. The 37-year-old delights in living in a tiny room in a house in one of Beijing's fast-vanishing hutong (laneways).

Shine shares her cozy room with a cat, and the rest of her hutong house with anyone who wants to better understand China and its rich culture.

The venue offers workshops on tea appreciation, traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), cuisine from across China, tai chi, kungfu and much more.

Shine and her friend, Mark Thirlwall, are the brains behind The Hutong, which Shine says is "a creative space for people to learn".

The two Australians are driven by different interests - Shine is passionate about art and Thirlwall loves tea and cooking - but they are both keen on learning about and absorbing different cultures.

Both were exposed to different cultures when they traveled extensively in China and across Asia because of their jobs as tour leaders for an Australian tour company.

By 2004, Shine, who has been in Beijing since 2001, had moved on to managing tour operations and training local and international guides in better understanding the needs of foreigners.

Thirlwall's interest in tea compelled him to shift base from India to China.

It was only in late 2006 that the two came up with the idea to get into events that would serve an educational and cultural purpose.

"I realized there were stiff borders," says Shine. "There was no nice place where people could feel comfortable, exchange thoughts and learn."

The Hutong was the result of this realization, which dawned on Shine when she was training local guides.

She and Thirlwall knew well that many of those who visit China are interested in taking back more than just pictures of the Forbidden City and the Great Wall.

"The Hutong is for people to see another side of China," says 31-year-old Thirlwall. "To know that people are taking something back is one of the high points. The idea isn't to make money but to create a community."

Shine and Thirlwall then set about looking for the right place and settled on a hutong.

"Hutong is synonymous with Beijing," says Thirlwall.

"These structures are unique to Beijing and very representative of its landscape even though there aren't very many left now."

They found a house in a hutong and over six months refurbished the 8-bedroom place, breaking walls and expanding rooms.

The Hutong now has a big kitchen, spacious hall, tiny room for Shine and private tea room.

In October 2007, Shine, Thirlwall and friends Celestina and Alex Tan opened for business, offering at first three core workshops - tea, TCM and cooking.

The Hutong gang soon swelled to 27 attracting teachers from across the world. The organization now offers 34 different workshops.

The teachers (including Shine and Thirlwall) form an assorted group; Shine teaches art, Thirlwall, Celestina and Joel Shuhat conduct the tea workshops and have their respective tea businesses; Alex Tan teaches TCM and has his own practice; Sandra teaches Sichuan cooking and designs websites, and Gulistan conducts the noodle workshop, and is an artist and a lecturer.

The Hutong even roped in a neighbor, a chef at a local restaurant, to conduct workshops on southern dishes.

But finding the right people, says Thirlwall, isn't easy. "A lot of people are good at a lot of things. Few can teach," he says. "I've met some really lovely people but they have not been the best of teachers."

Shine points out that since everyone involved with The Hutong is there because of his/her interests, the organization has seen a natural evolution.

The Hutong is able to continue because none of the teachers depend financially on it.

"Everyone has a career but they are here because they are passing on their passions," says Thirlwall.

For instance, because of her interest in life drawing, Shine is now planning to conduct life-drawing workshops. "I started life drawing in China because a friend of mine who did it in Australia was here and wanted to continue doing it," she says.

"We've grown from our respective interests. It really is a lifestyle choice, being exposed to different cultures."

She would know considering she even spends the long, cold Beijing winters in the hutong without heating or hot water.

"Sometimes I'll go over to a friend's place for a shower though," she laughs.

Both Shine and Thirlwall understand that China is "our host" and are mindful of the nuances. "We don't play loud music or tango on the terrace," says Shine.

Thirlwall says their relationship goes beyond the landlord. "This is a relationship with the people," he says. "A big part of doing anything here involves balance and respect. So while we don't intrude, we try to be open and friendly."