Michelin twins find new home

Famed French culinary brothers move out of the Expo and into a historic Shanghai building, Shi Yingying reports.

With the opening of Maison Pourcel, Michelin-star chefs, the Pourcel brothers, are moving out of the Expo's France Pavilion to a new Shanghai location.

Fittingly, twins Jacques and Laurent Pourcel have chosen the historic Red House building in the former French Concession - a restored mansion that once was the home of French cuisine in 1930s Shanghai.

The decision to move into the Red House, which was once renowned as the "best and only western dining room" in Shanghai, wasn't that tough for the Pourcels.

"The Red House was the first French restaurant in Shanghai, built during 1930s," said Jacques. "But we know lots of locals are disappointed because this place was dead - there were no more restaurant here. So we have made it reborn."

The restaurants offers Mediterranean-inspired French fine dining with a contemporary twist, of course.

The brothers' seaside hometown of Adge, on the south coast of France, is the obvious inspiration for their Mediterranean cuisine, along with their remarkable skills for cooking seafood.

"I've been going to the local fresh markets every day since I arrived (in Shanghai)," said Jacques. "And there are some products here that I've never seen in Europe, such as bamboo shoots. This is fascinating to me and we are hoping we can create a unique cuisine out ingredients like these."

So don't be surprise to see the Chinese ingredient of bamboo shoots incorporated into the traditional French dish of roasted turbot fillet.

Another interesting product to be used in the exclusive dining venue on top of the Red House building is a local favorite - crayfish (or the mini-lobster).

"In France, we call it crevice and people like it, but it's very difficult to find it nowadays due to the pollution," said Jacques. "I'm so happy to find it in Shanghai and local people love it."

Impressed by this three-star Michelin chef's imagination in creating crayfish tail and sauted sweetbread with asparagus tips in a thick shellfish bisque, one may question whether Michelin status is consistency or creativity.

"It was true that few years ago, the Michelin policy was strict and based on consistency," said Jacques. "But now it has started to change and is also based on creativity. So today, if you're not creative enough, you will not get a star."

Both legendary chefs are no strangers to Shanghai. After their Sens & Bund closed in 2008, they returned in May this year to helm 6SENS on top of the France Pavilion in the Expo Garden.

What is special about Maison Pourcel, according to Jacques, is that it is the only restaurant owned by the brothers that is trading under their family name, Pourcel.

"You know maison means 'home' in French, so when you come to the restaurant, it will be like you're invited to my home."

Occupying the top three floors of the Red House, Pourcel's home includes an exclusive fine dining restaurant on the eighth floor (top floor), which holds around 40 to 50 diners, with a less formal wine bar downstairs, offering tapas and set lunches.

If you go

Maison Pourcel

35 Shaanxi Road S, near Changle Road

Tel: 021-6287-9777

Price range: 400 yuan to 800 yuan per person

Opening hours: Restaurant opens seven days a week, dinner from 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm; wine & tapas bar opens for lunch from 11:30 am to 3:00 pm and dinner 5:30 pm to midnight

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